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Thread: Finial Chuck Jaws
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24th September 2009, 10:17 AM #1
Finial Chuck Jaws
Inspired by the "Finials" thread, I decided some much needed finial practice was in order here. Not wishing to use a 50 mm square blank (about the smallest my jaws will hold) to make a 16 mm diameter finial, some accessory jaws were needed. The first atempt (wood inserts) gripped securely but did not center and took 3 extra hands to get everything in place. The second attempt, crudely made from some rusty steel angle, centered remarkably well and gripped the wood securely, but a slight hitch in my gittalong (catch) actually bent two of the jaws. After straightening and cutting 5/8" (16 mm) off the "jaws" to reduce the leverage of the next catch, they work pretty well. Could be made more easily and accurately from 5/8" square bar stock with screw holes countersunk to correct depth. Now my finials need more practice.
Richard in Wimberley
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24th September 2009 10:17 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th September 2009, 11:15 AM #2
Jaws.
Morning Texian,
Why didn't I think of making some Jaws like that. I have 3 of the older style 2 tommy bar black Nova Chucks, which I think are almost the best & quickest in the business.
I needed some longer Jaws, & paid $91.80 for some Pinocchio Jaws. I'm very satisfied with then, but the cost at that time was a bit awkward.
I will most certainly have a go at your design, but will try to strengthen the sides to stop the bending, splaying.
Of course that happened with the small Jaws with only 1 screw per Jaw.
Very ingenious, & so so simple.
Regards,
issatree.
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24th September 2009, 11:37 AM #3
gets my vote
Its so darn obvious when you see it done, nice one Tex
It opens the door of possibility for all sorts of tailored jaw modsInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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24th September 2009, 11:45 AM #4
Clever idea. I'm impressed you managed to get them to centre so well.
Would the wooden inserts work better with some double sided tape, just to hold them in place while you tightened the chuck?
Cheers,
Dave...but together with the coffee civility flowed back into him
Patrick O'Brian, Treason's Harbour
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24th September 2009, 11:57 AM #5
Ditto! And for something of that small a diameter, centering is important.
Would the wooden inserts work better with some double sided tape, just to hold them in place while you tightened the chuck?
I turn similar "adapters" as one piece, with a rebate around the outside for a rubber band to to sit in so it's not chewed up when I tighten the jaws, and then quarter 'em on the bandsaw.
- Andy Mc
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24th September 2009, 12:00 PM #6
Thanks for your comments Issatree and Hughie. The jaws are about 5/8" wide and 5/8" deep, so could easily be made from 5/8" (16 mm?) square bar stock. Just countersink the screw holes so the screws can reach the correct depth. Both my chucks are the $99 Grizzly, which are said to be copies of a Vicmarc. The screw hole spacing seems to be about .709" (a strange number), which is a lot like 18 mm (not so strange number).
I admire and appreciate the spirit of folks on this forum who like to make stuff. Seems like most people (not all) on the U.S. forums just want ot buy stuff. Thanks again.Richard in Wimberley
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24th September 2009, 12:05 PM #7
...damn nice adaptation, Tex
Cheers,
Ed
Do something that is stupid and fun today, then run like hell !!!
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24th September 2009, 12:06 PM #8GOLD MEMBER
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Yes, impressive. The precision requires proper metalworking machinery, though, I wonder how many woodworkers would have access to that. I have found that a relatively cheap chuck with 4 sets of jaws costing less than A$300 can do almost anything, from the small finial to the 14" bowl to off cente turning.
This said, the challenges of toolmaking are probably what saves turning from triviality. Well done!
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24th September 2009, 12:07 PM #9
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24th September 2009, 12:18 PM #10
Thanks Dave and Skew. The double-side tape should work fine with wood inserts for limited use. I wanted something that could be removed and reinstalled in repeatable fashion like regular chuck jaws.
I clamped a "fence" to the drill press table, put "automatic" center punch in drill chuck and punched first hole location in all four pieces. This is why they center pretty well. Then scribed the .709" spacing on one piece and moved fence to center punch those four holes. Not perfect but pretty close.
Thanks Ed and O.
F.&E., They would certainly be better with proper metal working tools (like a nice milling machine), but I do not have them.Richard in Wimberley
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24th September 2009, 12:30 PM #11
I imagine that if you made the jaws from brass stock, then you could fit them to the chuck and true them up with a scraper?
(Just pondering on ways that I might be able have some success. )
- Andy Mc
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24th September 2009, 12:31 PM #12...but together with the coffee civility flowed back into him
Patrick O'Brian, Treason's Harbour
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24th September 2009, 12:35 PM #13.
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That's more or less what I did. I made the chuck jaws, attached them to the chuck and then put the whole chuck in the Metal work lathe and turned them true.
FUll threads here and here
BTW I like your jaws Texian. Somewhere I have a half finished set that are similar to yours but are actually made from solid blocks of ally so the will not splay as much at the tips. I often hold small stuff by the last 1/2" of so of the tips and find they splay too much and good out of parallel to teh turning axis.
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24th September 2009, 12:57 PM #14
Skew, The truing up (brass jaws) could work, but they would have to be at least partially clamped on something to take up the slack in the scroll mechanism of the chuck.
Thanks Bobl, That's why I suggest using solid 5/8" (16mm) square bar stock instead of the thin, rusty steel angle that I had. There will be no tips to splay out.
Thanks Ed.Richard in Wimberley
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25th September 2009, 01:06 AM #15Skwair2rownd
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Good one Texian!
My vote for Tip of the Month.
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