Thread: which finish for turned bowls?

My preferred finish for bowls is Shellawax Cream used, either in conjunction with, or without, EEE Ultra Shine.

Shellawax Cream was designed initially for use on high end exhibition quality bowls, but can be used on all work. If used for food bowls it is best used for dry foods (nuts, chips, biscuits, etc.) It is a shellac based product and will react to alcohol and water the same as french polish.

DON'T use EEE as a finish on its own. It is an abrasive wax for use under Shellawax and over most other finishes.

In the not too distant future we will have an oil that should be a great alternative to use on bowls. Still in the test stages as yet but not too far off. Hopefully for Melb WWW Show late October.

For more information on any of our products go to WOODWORKING AUSTRALIA and click on the U-Beaut Products link. You might also like to have a look at the Special Events link, where the Australian Woodturning Exhibition 2000 site, is slowly but surely taking shape.

Blatant advertising I know. However, as I do own the BB so I might as well make use of it, as can anyone else who wants to put a plug in for their prefered bowl finishing product.

Cheers - Neil

PS (I am talking about FOOD bowls here and worst case scenario's). I think you will find that walnut, olive, almond, peanut and pretty well all other vegetable oils can go off (turn rancid) after a while. Mineral oil is a non drying oil and not a good idea to use. In Australia, Teak oil (from memory) is an upkeep polish for teak furniture and probably a bad thing to use. Waxes will show water marks quicker than almost any other finish. If polyester resin, polyurethane, varnish, and shellac get damaged or craze they can harbour salmonella germs. I can probably go on further but I think you get the idea, so I'll shut up and nick off.

[This message has been edited by ubeaut (edited 26 September 2000).]

I make a finish of mineral oil and beeswax. (Wood butter). I like the sheen it gives, mine dries great, food safe. Salad bowl finishes also but a for me a little pricey.

my preferred finish is Kunos Oil.

Hmmm... it depends on what the intended use of the bowl is.

• For decorative pieces I like to build up many layers of Tung Oil.
• For pieces that will be constantly used & handled, eg. a peanut server, EEE & Shellawax.
• A "user" that's expected to hold liquids? A good penetrating coat of Tung Oil, usually followed by a wax buff.
• If it's going to be a mixing bowl for the missus - ie. functionality is far more important than a "shiny finish" - It'll simply get a polished surface with EEE and then a wax buff.

If something is going to have mixing spoons, etc. walloping around inside, then no surface finish will last more than a couple of uses', it's pointless trying. As I mentioned above, if it'll hold liquids I apply an oil but there's nought wrong with a plain old untreated surface for mixing doughs, etc. (Always provided you've carefully selected a food-safe timber in the first place, of course!)

In most cases ,Ruston Danish oil .
Ted

Originally Posted by Lance

Which finish do you prefer for bowls?
I have heard of people using varnish, polyester resin, walnut oil, tung oil, danish oil, olive oil, vegetable oil, mineral oil, *no finish*, waxes, EEE ultrashine, scandinavian teak oil, Linseed oil and shellac.

thanks,
Lance

You do realize this thread Is 18 yrs old !!!!!!!!

Yay! Now it can get plastered and then go vote!

Originally Posted by smiife

You do realize this thread Is 18 yrs old !!!!!!!!

And 18 years later new turners are asking the same questions. I like generic Tung oil. For salad bowls etc., food grade mineral oil bought at a pharmacy, sold as a laxative and cheap as bottled water.