Thread: Frustrated by sharpening jig set-up time

Ern

I thought the jig was suppose to be quick to set up.

Ross

They are.

Originally Posted by rsser

Have used several brands, the latest being Tormek either on the dry grinder or the wet.

All but one of my bowl gouges have swept back wings and need to be jigged to refresh the edge. Getting the settings right is time consuming.

.

Ern, are you using the new setting jig from Tormek?

Old croc, do you mean the TTS? Or the corrected gouge jig?

Yes, both.

And yes, it's easy enough to dial in the same settings as marked on the gouge but minor variations still result so rather than spend more time at the whetsone I double check using the blacked bevel method. Then fill the tray, wait for the stone to absorb the water, top up the tray and finally have at it.

GJ, I understood you'd got another gouge jig or two cos of the variation problem ...?

But overall my frustration is not with the effectiveness of jigs but the efficiency, esp when most of your gouge wear comes from hacking.

Then fill the tray, wait for the stone to absorb the water, top up the tray and finally have at it.

You fill the tray at the start of the job, start the grinder up and top it up.

That should be all it needs for the day with minor top ups. I use a 2 litre bottle

You set the jigs at the start of the job and leave them there.

45 secs from stop, sharpen and start again.

If you are having trouble with setting the jigs, pin them.

I use a Tru-Grind on a 6” grinder, fitted with a 120 grit wheel

2 jigs, one for bowl gouge another one for spindle gouges both drilled and pinned.

2 pivot points on the main frame of the jig.

Total time taken to load and grind, 20 seconds.

There is a small difference in the angle/ profile between a 10 mm and a 13mm gouge because of the different diameters..

Don’t like that difference? Tough!!!! get used to it.

For what it's worth, that’s how I do it

Cheers

Tim

Extra jigs wherever possible.

Similar to using open-end wrenches (spanners) vs. adjustable, and the same instead of adjustable calipers. I try to design some of my work with standard diameters, or use multiple calipers for odd shapes. Tie on colored flagging tape for identification.

Cheers,
Joe

The only real difficulty in free hand sharpening is setting the proper table angle on your grinder. You can sharpen any shape on it, from spindle roughing gouge to swept back bowl gouges by varying how much you sweep and roll the gouge to the sides. No jigs needed. Haven't used my gouge jig in a year or two. The grinds don't have to be perfect to work well.

robo hippy

On anything other than a basic bowl I use 2 - 3 different gouges so set and forget with the jig is not an option and if a freehand ladyfinger grind does most of the work then more jigs are unnecessary.

So this is the basic bowl turning kit (all measures rod diameter).

Roughers
Roughers can all be refreshed with the simple platform set at 45* to the dry grind wheel, and that'll also do the spindle roughing gouge. Just a simple shaft rotate will produce a ladyfinger grind on the bowl gouges. 2 passes in seconds.

P&N U flute 10mm
HT Superflute 13mm
Thompson V 16.25

Finishers
These have a modest swept back grind and close to 45* tip bevel except for the Ellsworth. They get the full treatment on the Tormek which should last longer than longer cos they're not getting used as roughers.

* HT Superflute 9.6mm
* HT Superflute 12.6mm
* Ellsworth signature gouge, Crown version, 16mm

There will be variations. I can see the HT Superflute 9.6mm finisher getting used for shaping the inside rim of an inward curving bowl cos of the swept back wing, and the Ellsworth for dealing with the 'corner' with its 60mm bevel angle.

So let me emphasise, for this little black duck this is an experiment in getting the best out of the best. Your mileage may vary.

I'm sure Ken W and the like can jig and sharpen a gouge in his sleep ...