Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 22 of 22
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,125

    Default

    Dude! Get it from Monaro Toys and Hobbies on Kembla Street Fyshwick, opposite all those ugly car yards on the main drag.

    They stock the BSI CA in thin, med and thick, plus the Hafele activator.

    All at excellent prices.I use it for my pens.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    Dude! Get it from Monaro Toys and Hobbies on Kembla Street Fyshwick, opposite all those ugly car yards on the main drag.

    They stock the BSI CA in thin, med and thick, plus the Hafele activator.

    All at excellent prices.I use it for my pens.
    Dammit!! I was even in Fyshwick and it completely slipped my mind [emoji35]
    I'll try CA on the next one.

  4. #18
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
    Age
    66
    Posts
    4,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mattm82 View Post
    I had psyched myself up to try a CA finish but turns out that Canberra doesn't seem to have it anywhere and I need it today.

    I got a wipe on poly to try. I do have tru-oil but interested to try the poly how.

    I'll just have to make some more bowls and brushes and try all the options.
    WOP probably wont go over the EEE so well.

    I've used Minwax WOP ( Satin & Gloss) and it does not like naturally oily timbers as it takes a long time to cure (if at all on some), so is perhaps not a good choice. The harder inland timbers do take an oil finish well. Film finishes like CA, epoxy, WOP will eventually get moisture under them and will lift / peel whereas oil finishes won't because the oil is in the pores of the timber. Oil finishes will lose their appeal but are easier to repair / refurbish.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post
    WOP probably wont go over the EEE so well.

    I've used Minwax WOP ( Satin & Gloss) and it does not like naturally oily timbers as it takes a long time to cure (if at all on some), so is perhaps not a good choice. The harder inland timbers do take an oil finish well. Film finishes like CA, epoxy, WOP will eventually get moisture under them and will lift / peel whereas oil finishes won't because the oil is in the pores of the timber. Oil finishes will lose their appeal but are easier to repair / refurbish.
    Hmmm now I'm conflicted. I use wax finishes for the same reason, easy to refurbish and can take abuse better than hard finishes.

    I definitely can't go wrong with oil, and the recipient can always drop it around for a touch up... I'll have to have a think now!

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mattm82 View Post
    Hi,

    I have turned my first shaving brush and shave bowl. I have not turned either before so would like to hear your feedback on what could be improved.

    I am not sensitive, if you see flaws please let me know. Looking to improve where ever I can. Thanks in advance.

    Matt



    Hi Matt

    have you used the brush and bowl?
    how do they feel in the hand, where does the shape need tweaking to provide in a better fit?
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Hi Ian, yet to finish them so haven't tried them properly but they both feel good. Te brush I will probably make a little narrower next time, just because it suits me a little better, but the brush fits the bowl well, room to lather up but not too big. I'll be able to get some good feedback from8 the user too so time will tell.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    135

    Default

    Got the set finished today and collected about an hour after it was done!



    I re-handled the razor, I didn't have time to try to make the head myself.

    I originally tried to do a box joint, but don't have the tools and the hacksaw didn't really do the job. Might be time to invest in a nice saw.

    Razor handle is turned titanium with the gidgee outer. I'm liking it a lot.




Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Similar Threads

  1. Genuine Apple Stylus
    By Gra in forum WOODTURNING - PEN TURNING
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 30th August 2013, 10:39 PM
  2. Replies: 8
    Last Post: 12th February 2011, 01:55 PM
  3. Husqvarna non genuine parts
    By Kreed in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLING
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 19th August 2009, 10:52 AM
  4. Genuine UNIMAT 3 lathe
    By neksmerj in forum METALWORK FORUM
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 4th June 2007, 08:46 PM
  5. Genuine announcements
    By doug the slug in forum WOODIES JOKES
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 21st July 2005, 11:31 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •