Getting a Handle on things.....

**Stu in Tokyo** · 30th July 2007, 10:28 PM

I saw Harry's post about making handles and how he was wishing he had the "Pin Jaws" for his chuck, I wondered about why he would want those, as I never needed them to make handles for my tools.

I thought I'd post up my method of making handles, if you have seen this all before, sorry, if not, I hope you can glean some speck of info that you can use.

I got a couple of new tools, unhanded, so I had to make some handles for them.

Attachment 51986
I have two tools to make, one an EVIL skew and the other a roughing gouge. I've never had a good version of either, so I'm quite excited to get these done and use them!

Attachment 51987
The first thing I do is true up the edges of the tube I'm using as a ferrule. This ferrule is some off cuts from a towel rack I made for SWMBO, it is stainless and works well for this. You can see the burr left on the inside of the tube by the pipe cutter thing I use to cut this stuff.

Attachment 51988
When I get done, the burr is gone, and in fact I try to put a slight taper on the inside, to ease installing it on the handle.

Attachment 51989
I have a nice chunk of Sakura on the lathe ready to make a handle, this stuff is HARD but it turns nice, as it has a VERY tight grain, and it will polish up real nice too!

Attachment 51990
I stuck the roughing gouge into the pipe handle I have, and used it to rough this blank round, boy does this work! man do I like this whole roughing gouge thing!!!

.................

**Stu in Tokyo** · 30th July 2007, 10:32 PM

Attachment 51994
Now I'm going to turn a tenon to put the ferrule on, I leave it a little long and then trim it later.

Attachment 51995
I use a veneer caliper to check the size (that one is plastic, I need to get a steel one!) and when I get close, I check by taking the blank off the lathe and test it.

Attachment 51996
it is a tight fit, but that is good!

Attachment 51997
I then bash the ferrule on with a mallet.....

Attachment 51998
....and finish it with the rest of the cut off of the pipe, back on the lathe it goes.

**Stu in Tokyo** · 30th July 2007, 10:33 PM

OK back to the lathe, time for some shaping of the handle.

Attachment 51999
I try to make each one a touch different, so when I reach for them I can see and or feel the difference in the tool handles.

Attachment 52000
The end of the tool, it is real important to have a taper on the end, as this will help with drilling the hole the tool steel goes into.

Attachment 52001
Now I have the handle parted off, the tail stock removed, and a drill chuck, with a properly sized drill bit installed.

Attachment 52002
Now I hold the bottom of the handle against the tail of the lathe, with out any tailstock in there (the pointy spinny bit) and here the taper on the bottom of the handle sits in the hole of the tail, centering it. I hold this with my hand, and I turn the tail stock handle slowly forward to push the handle into the drill bit. I have the lathe turned way down to around 250 rpms.

Attachment 52003
I then use a block of wood and a mallet to bash the tool into the handle, and now I have a nicely handed (if I say so myself!) roughing gouge.

**Stu in Tokyo** · 30th July 2007, 10:35 PM

Attachment 52004
This blank had some inclusions and cracks in it (nothing major) that I filled with CA and sanded. To finish these I sand to #400, then I put on the sanding sealer, let it dry, sand to #400 again, then to #600. Once I sand to #600, I then put some stick wax on it and buff, this leaves a nice looking handle.

I've done three of these now, the Supa gouge (a bowl gouge on steroids) the roughing gouge and evil Skew, and a Bedan tool......

Attachment 52005
I also did a handle for the file I use for my chainsaw.

I sure enjoy this aspect of turning, making your own tools, and they are a LOT cheaper (here in Japan) this way, especially as I had a buddy who was in Canada pick these up for me and bring them back, so I paid no shipping either

This Sakura is sure nice for this stuff, looks good too.

Cheers!

**Cliff Rogers** · 30th July 2007, 10:36 PM

Good on ya.

**Stu in Tokyo** · 30th July 2007, 10:43 PM

Thanks Cliff, I try!

**DJ’s Timber** · 30th July 2007, 10:51 PM

They look great Stu, interested to see what you think of the Supa Gouge once you've used it

**Stu in Tokyo** · 30th July 2007, 10:57 PM

Actually, I did this a while back, so I've been using the Supra gouge for some time and I just love it, I'd buy it again in a heart beat!

It totally ROCKS for roughing out green bowl blanks, I can dig holes in t blanks faster than you would think you could, I can take DEEP cuts and the Supra gouge does not even notice.

GREAT buy, money well spent, IMHO!

Cheers!

**Cliff Rogers** · 30th July 2007, 11:06 PM

What did you use to clean up the feral ferrule?

**Caveman** · 30th July 2007, 11:14 PM

Nice one Stu - very comprehensive.
Will return to this thread before I make my next handle for a re-cap.

**TTIT** · 30th July 2007, 11:24 PM

I agree you don't need the pin jaws to make handles Stu but I'm guessin' you've never had the drill run off center and mess up your finished handle!?!?

If you're unlucky enough to have it happen (jinxed ya' now!), try drilling your hole first up, then mount a bit of rod or dowel in the chuck that is a snug fit in the hole to drive your blank while you rough, shape and finish the handle. Guarantees your tool is centered in the handle this way.

**Cliff Rogers** · 30th July 2007, 11:46 PM

I predrill my handles too & then use the cone centre tailstock in that hole.

**Stu in Tokyo** · 31st July 2007, 01:13 AM

Nope, never had a drill go off center, dunno how it could....?

I just use a scraper to true up the ferrule, that SS is very soft compared to the HSS of the turning tools.

Cheers!

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 31st July 2007, 01:46 AM

I can see you haven't tried your hand at pens!

The smallest a pen blank is usually drilled is with a 7mm bit and it is very common for the drill to wander off with the grain, even when drilled on the lathe. Mind you, when the wood you're drilling is only a 10 or 11mm square cross-section in the first place, any deviation is immediately obvious!

Spade bits are even worse...

It's not such a problem when drilling into the side grain of course, but end-grain is a pain.

**Stu in Tokyo** · 31st July 2007, 02:23 AM

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

I can see you haven't tried your hand at pens!

Dunno where you got that idea..........

Attachment 52023
That is about a quarter of the last batch I did

Dilling the tool handles, I turn the lathe down to about 200 rpm, then guide it by hand, I've yet to have a problem.

Cheers!

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