Thread: Glaser tools

Dave. Glaser to me are on par or a little better than the Thompson's

I have a 6mm bowl gouge and have used the 1/2" version.

They are on the list of Toys to drool/get.

Glaser to me are on par or a little better than the Thompson's

Thats interesting Pat, I had often wondered. This stuff I generally turn is often a mongrel and my thompson tools are not overly fond of our hardwoods.

Hughie, for all the hype about the different steels and treatments, for Aussie hardwoods, my P & N's out last and out cut them all.

[Hughie, for all the hype about the different steels and treatments, for Aussie hardwoods, my P & N's out last and out cut them all

Funny I only have a couple of P&N probably have more HAMLET 2060's than anything else.

Well, Glaser and Thompson are the same steels. With the Glaser, you pay a lot for the fancy handle. I have a couple of older ones from when Jerry Glaser was still the owner, and they have the shot filled handles. Don't care for the handles at all. I like straight, no taper or bumps handles. Don't like the extra weight of the shot filled handles. Never tried the P and N ones. There is V 10 steel, and V 15 which is a lot harder. Don't know if the V 15 is worth the extra money or not.

robo hippy

Originally Posted by robo hippy

Don't know if the V 15 is worth the extra money or not.

Not in the Thompsons, IMO.

Can't comment on the Glasers as I haven't used any of them (yet).

I did ask Doug what he thought about the V 15, and if he thought it was worth it. He did say it was more brittle, and maybe not worth the extra money.

robo hippy

Originally Posted by robo hippy

I did ask Doug what he thought about the V 15, and if he thought it was worth it. He did say it was more brittle, and maybe not worth the extra money.

robo hippy

Interesting, I did a comparison test run between his 10V and 15V gouges, including a test run on some 100 year old red gum fence posts, and struggled to detect any performance benefits for the 15V.

Crucible's tool steel property information, which I understand both Doug and Hitec use, does indicates that their 15V is 50% more resistant to wear, but also twice as brittle (impact tough) as 10V. So, may perform better on softer woods than our harder woods, which many of ours are, and definitely not suitable for interrupt cuts on such woods.

At a premium of 37.5% I couldn't justify the additional cost of Doug's 15V 5/8" gouge.

I'm still open to whether Hitec's 5/8" 10V Glaser bowl gouge is worth the 2.3x the price of the Thompson 5/8" 10V. It would have to be something really special to justify that many extra $s.

And, who knows what the price/performance will be of Hitec's "upcoming Synergy Ultragouge tool line (with) the outstanding properties of (their) newly developed steel Cauldron 305". I'm not holding my breath!

I'm not holding my breath!

That's good Neil, love it, and am like you, not holding my breath. No matter what tool I am using, I prefer a freshly sharpened tool for finish cuts. Seems to me that no matter how fancy the steel is, the 'last longer' tools keep a working edge longer, but not a finish cut edge.

I am curious as to your thoughts about the cryogenic treatment.

robo hippy

And, who knows what the price/performance will be of Hitec's "upcoming Synergy Ultragouge tool line (with) the outstanding properties of (their) newly developed steel Cauldron 305". I'm not holding my breath

Yeah me too on that one, but I am curious If its as half as good as the hype then......

Originally Posted by robo hippy

I am curious as to your thoughts about the cryogenic treatment.

Other than knowing that there is research evidence to support the effectiveness of cryogenic treatment when applied appropriately, the metallurgy involved is well beyond me.

I understand that the aim is to convert austenite into martensite, but just why and how the different cryogenic treatments achieve better results over others is well beyond me. Too much martensite and the steel becomes too brittle, not enough and it remains too soft. Sounds like a nightmare to me.

I can get my head more readily around why the introduction of powdered metal technology has been so beneficial. If you finely granulate the metal alloy before the tool bar is formed there is less distance for the constituent particles to move to form the desired crystal structure.

In the end we woodturners pick up the tool, usually in ignorance of how it is made, and make a judgement whether it works better for the money over our other tools. If we like it we come back for more. And, forums like this one help us share our experiences.

Apologies for being so long winded about knowing nothing...