Thread: Glued Mortice.....Does it work well?

Interesting concept... be interested to know your reasonings.

My opinions it would all be down to the glue strength, and as we've disussed many times, long grain to long grain glue joints can be stronger than the joined timbers themselves.

So I guess it should be as strong as any glued M&T joint.

I guess "for framework" means it would be hidden, because it could look pretty ugly.

Originally Posted by rod1949

Interesting concept... be interested to know your reasonings.

A quicker and more accurate way to knock out mortices on light and dark laminated alternating timbers since you would only need to chisel out a single line rather than digging out the whole shebang.

Also I don't have a mortiser nor attachment

Originally Posted by 44Ronin

EDIT = Wrong section.....supposed to be general woodwork....on the other hand...I wonder if you could turn the piece and still have a functional mortice

For turning, it works well. Many turned items need the blanks to be built up to thickness ($$$ otherwise) and if you also need a mortise, it's good practise to include it at the same time.

I've also used 'em in piecework furniture (ie. built up from a lot of laminations... like breadboards on legs. ) and haven't discovered any problems. Except with glue creep, but that's a problem with any glue up, neh?

Rookie has the right of it: it's only as good as your glue. bad glue = problems, good glue = better strength than the wood!

I did the frame for a board room table using this method. Fantastic way to go. Strong joints. Use pva glue. I wish I knew how to insert a photo so I could show you a pic of it.