Thread: different goblet.

Very nice Oldiphred!

The only thing I might suggest is to make the base thinner in the future.

I take it that it's laminated ... ? Very striking.

Agree with Ed as to form: thinner base, also thinner stem.

Very interesting. I'd have the dark wood at the bottom of the stripe. It would then look like a shadow and almost 3D. Make more o' them I reckon. See what happens.

Bravo! Nicely done!

I like the form and I rather like the stem as it is. Have you hollowed out the top section of the stem? I'm guessing not, but it would lighten the weight and make the goblet feel better in the hand. Bit of an awkward procedure though.

As has been said, the foot should be a tad thinner, and I'll also throw in the warning that the inside of the bowl should be sealed. Preferably with a good water-proof finish if the goblet has a chance of being used (I use Rustin's Plastic Coating) or with the same as you've finished the outside if it's purely for display.

Why? 'Cos the different timbers will absorb moisture at different rates & move accordingly. The glue joints in a segmented goblet are very thin as it is (I'm assuming you've hollowed all the way down) and it doesn't take much movement to break 'em. DAMHIKT.

Oh yes, I like it a lot. I'm agree with Ed and rrser about the base, a little bit thinner and it looks fantastic. Hmmm taking pictures, not that important, as long as I'm able to judge a piece of work, it's okay.
Anyway a great job.
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Nicely done,

I like the shape even though I tend to go more for curves than angles . I also agree with the others about the weight of the foot. If it where thinner and maybe slightly smaller in diameter than the base of the cup, I think it would look lighter.

Guessing the pattern looks the same on the inside?

Originally Posted by oldiephred

there is some distance to go.

There's always some distance to go, even though we might not ever get there.

I agree about the foot thickness, sealing the inside of the bowl, and Tea Lady's suggestion about the ordering of the stripes. I tend to favour a mirror shape for the bottom of the bowl and the top of the foot, about the middle of the stem, but I'm no expert judge for that.

I'm assuming a Celtic-knot construction of the blank. Subject to compatibility of saw kerf and veneer thicknesses, the WOW factor could be boosted by making each stripe in its own sequence. For 12 stripes, there could be 12 cuts or 24 half-cuts, or ... Unfortunately, many of the many combination sequences would probably be downright ugly, so this could be a dangerous and tedious path.

The hardest part I've had with these, is re-centering the blank for final turning. Just a wee bit off-axis, and the loops go walkabout. I'm sorting out an improved process, but haven't yet reduced it to practise. Too many other things on the bucket list. Maybe sometime before my Rose Engine.

Very well done, BTW.

Joe

Thanks all for the very helpful comments. I will probably not make any more exactly like this one. I tend to be a been there/done that person unless I get a request for a matched set. I am experimenting with various colors and thicknesses of inserts.