Gold Standard In Turning Tools?

**robo hippy** · 27th July 2012, 04:05 AM

I will agree with Tea Lady that the particular shape that works for you is the most important. Other than that, I prefer the powder metals as they can get just as sharp, and have much longer edge durability. The durability of the steel like the D Way tools gouges are made of is similar. I do prefer to buy blank shafts, and make my own wood handles, mostly because none of the commercial handles fit my big paws.

I talked to Doug Thompson about the V 15 steel. His comment was that it was considerably more brittle than the V 10, and considering the extra cost, maybe not worth it.

As far as him not making the oval skews, I would guess it is because the steel he uses is so hard to mill. I have asked about a few things that I would like to see done, like rounded edges on the scrapers, and he said that the V 10 really eats up the abrasives and milling bits. He does work from large blocks which he then mills to size.

robo hippy

**artme** · 27th July 2012, 09:36 AM

An old chestnut, this question.

I started out wth Hamlet tools and find them exce3llent for most work.

I like my Henry Taylor Superflutes. They , in my opinion are a step above the Hamlets.

The Robert Sorby tools I have are larger Bowl gouges. I find that if not ground just so I can't get a good cut with them. They also seeem to dull more quickly.

P&N are as good as anything but normally they have some maching marks in the flute. These can lead to marking on the turned item.

**NeilS** · 27th July 2012, 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by robo hippy

I talked to Doug Thompson about the V 15 steel. His comment was that it was considerably more brittle than the V 10, and considering the extra cost, maybe not worth it.

That's the opinion I came to. Perhaps not such an issue with softer woods, but our harder woods quickly shatter a fine cutting edge if the steel is too brittle, especially if you are also turning some air.... thunk....thunk...thunk...thunk...

**hughie** · 27th July 2012, 09:49 AM

[That's the opinion I came to. Perhaps not such an issue with softer woods, but our harder woods quickly shatter a fine cutting edge if the steel is too brittle, especially if you are also turning some air.... thunk....thunk...thunk...thunk...

Been there and done that.

**Old Croc** · 27th July 2012, 02:14 PM

Originally Posted by sjt

I notice Thompson doesn't stock any oval skews. Anyone hazard a guess?

Scott, I dont want to start an argument, but I have a Henry Taylor Oval Skew, and have never been any good at spindle turning. 2 years ago, gave me some lessons at the Prossie Turnout,

using his standard flat Skew, I went out and bought a P&N flat Skew, and have never looked back, actually look forward to picking it up and doing fine planing spindle cuts,
but thats my experience, others will probably say the Oval Skews work for them,
Crocy

**artme** · 27th July 2012, 06:14 PM

Oval skews are a gimmick! I have one and can't see that it has any advantages over a flat skew. In fact a flat skew is a much better tool.

A Sorensen spindle tool is a good tool, if you are interested.

**Mobyturns** · 29th July 2012, 09:01 PM

The gold standard is the tool that works for you. If only turners would spend time actually learning how to sharpen & how to use the tools they have more efficiently. Then there's all the variations in cutting edge "shape" & grinding angles - never ending combinations & permutations with timber hardness etc. But life would be boring if we didn't have choices and something to discuss over a beer at the end of the day.

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