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Thread: GPW turning tools.
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1st March 2008, 11:02 AM #1
GPW turning tools.
here....
http://gpwoodturning.yahoostore.com...._id=1107146794
Whats the real difference between one of these and say a P&N or Sorby (or other pricey chisel) ? In terms of edge retention.
Has somebody got one, as well as a pricey one so a direct comparison can be made ?
Is it a huge difference? Does the edge on a GPW chisels fold up quickly ? eg. the edges last only say half the time of a P&N equivelent ?
Or is really just a subtle difference ? Instead of every hour having to resharpen (or whatever) you have to re-sharpen every 50mins
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1st March 2008, 01:17 PM #2
They look a lot like the ones Northwood sells
I got a couple am not sure that the steel is as good as P&N they are also not as solid in heft in my view
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1st March 2008, 03:47 PM #3
ta. I'm thinking the same.
But heft I'm thinking won't bother me though. Just edge retention. If they hold up essentially as long, I figure, then why not buy them, since their so much cheaper.
Unless there are other factors I'm overlooking. ???
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1st March 2008, 05:44 PM #4You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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i saw some today at he newy wood expo. they look to be well finished
S T I R L O
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1st March 2008, 05:56 PM #5
They're the same as the Northwood ones and are good for beginners and turning softwood. But they aren't so good for Hardwood. P+Ns probably last about 3 times longer
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1st March 2008, 06:00 PM #6Hewer of wood
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If they're the same as what Mik and Northwood sell, user reports have been favourable.
Yes, the handles are good looking but light and perhaps on the short side but you can always replace them with your own.
Maybe the steel isn't as good as more exxy brands but for hobby turners a few more trips to the grinder isn't going to be a make or break issue.
AFAIC a critical issue is the shape of the flutes on gouges. This does significantly affect the pleasure you get in turning. And I can't comment on these units not having tried them.Cheers, Ern
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1st March 2008, 06:06 PM #7Hewer of wood
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OK, extracted the digit and looked at the pics on the GPW website.
Can't say I'm overwhelmed just looking at the bowl gouge shapes. Too flat at the tip (in plan) for my tastes but there's always more than one way of skinning a cat.
Maybe a different grind would change it, or just develop your technique with these tools as you have to do with any other.
For bowl gouges IMO you have to go far to beat a Henry Taylor Superflute, both in steel quality and edge profile. Not cheap, but a single 3/8" or 1/2" will do for most applications.Cheers, Ern
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1st March 2008, 06:12 PM #8
Well I only turn the odd spindle or table leg for furniture plus I'm a cheapskate.
I still use an elcheapo chinese set. I keep a file on the lathe and give the chisels a rub with it as they lose the razor edge.
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1st March 2008, 06:27 PM #9Hewer of wood
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Yeah, I do the same thing often. Use a diamond hone to freshen the edge. Doesn't last as long as a pass on the grinder but does less to interrupt the flow.
Cheers, Ern
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1st March 2008, 06:30 PM #10
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1st March 2008, 06:35 PM #11
true but the file is so quick and easy.
I wouldn't try turning box or ironbark with them but redgum and jarrah turn well, but then again I wouldnt turn box/ironbark anyway
interestingly the cheap chisels seem to have reasonable steel in them, but they are not gardened and tempered.
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1st March 2008, 06:45 PM #12Hewer of wood
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Yeah, and that points to all the other variables in this game.
ie. what wood you turn, how hard you go into it, how much tool overhang you use.
Added: I turned some 10" bowls out of Brush Box. The final hollowing passes required a trip to the grinder each time. Should I blame the poor quality of the HT steel? I don't think so. This timber has a lot of silica in it which will knock the edge off anything quick smart.Last edited by rsser; 1st March 2008 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Added
Cheers, Ern
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1st March 2008, 11:28 PM #13
And this leads me to my two bobs worth!!! I stay silent on this subject as a rule but I've got a mix of Hamlet, P&N, Sorby and Henry Taylor and I doubt I could measure any difference in edge holding ability on any of them - if I'm turning abrasive crappy wood they all need frequent sharpening and if I'm turning soft, woozy stuff, they all seem to go on slicing forever Thats it! - now I'll go back to my cupboard and lock myself in
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2nd March 2008, 04:16 PM #14
Ern, what sort of grind do you use on your 3/8 superflute?
I have a very nice 1/2" sorby that I have ground to a long 'fingernail/ellsworth' type grind - I use this about 75% of the time but am looking at something ground more square across for use mostly on the inside of bowls.Cheers,
Andy
"There's more wisdom gained in listening than in speaking"
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2nd March 2008, 05:15 PM #15Hewer of wood
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Hi Andy,
Not sure how to describe the grind. Fingernail-ish?
I just put it on the platform to do a 45 degree bevel and rotate the shaft without swinging the handle.
I've tried long flute-wing grinds on several gouges and found that they didn't cope very well with our hardwoods. That's partly a function of how the flute is situated/shaped within the rod of course.
To rabbit on a bit ...
The one tool I carefully keep to the Irish grind (if that's what it is) is the 5/8 Ellsworth Signature gouge. That would be one of my desert-island tool choices; steep bevel at the front for easily getting around the bowl 'corner' yet long wings. I can just barely get it set up correctly on the Sorby fingernail grind jig. Gem of a tool.
As I understand it, a straight grind would look like this: seen side-on with flute up, all the cutting edge would be at 90 degrees to the shaft.
All that said, while I keep my hand in with bowl gouges to hollow a bowl, mostly these days I use the Woodcut Proforme. Makes it all easy esp. if bending over or around is a problem.
You can get the head alone from the factory and fit it to your own shaft as long as you can do a bit of metalwork butchery: drilling, grinding, bending of the shaft and thread tapping. If you're interested see https://www.woodworkforums.com/blog.php?b=84
Hope this is of use.Cheers, Ern
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