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Thread: Grain orientation.
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31st August 2015, 02:14 PM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Grain orientation.
I've been splitting firewood for 2017,( I'm an optimist ) and while splitting green Spotted Gum blocks noticed that the handle was getting ragged again. Every time I go to buy a new handle I find that whole splitters are cheaper than handles so I've gathered a few spare heads.
So, I've grabbed some 1m lenths of green Spotty and will make some handles, they will be about 30X45mm and I was wondering which way to run the annual rings, with the long axis or across like a longbow.Any ideas,opinions....PhilIMG_20150831_124523.jpgIMG_20150831_124507.jpg
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31st August 2015 02:14 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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31st August 2015, 03:25 PM #2
Parallel to the wedge slot, according to these folks: http://www.fs.fed.us/eng/pubs/htmlpu...823/page03.htm (about 1/8 way down page).
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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31st August 2015, 05:09 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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Thanks Joe, that's interesting, though I have not seen too much sap wood with annual rings ?
Maybe I'll try a couple from sap if I can keep the borers out, they love Spotty sap.
IMG_20150831_144957.jpgIMG_20150831_152750.jpgLinseed oil should keep them out
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1st September 2015, 02:49 PM #4
I reckon the grain direction recommendation is two-fold. At the wedge slot, the parallel grain is more compressible by the wedge, and therefore grips the wedge better. In use, the handle is a cantilever beam, with the load at the head, and your arm providing fixity; the vertical grains work like the webs of I-beams and are both stiffer and stronger.
In a longbow, flexibility is desired so crosswise grain would be preferred. More strain provides more energy storage, and release.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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2nd September 2015, 01:51 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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Well, I cut a couple of quarters into 50X50mm and chucked one on the Vicmarc, turned to the max diameter round then put a line across the endgrain and marked a center 5mm each side of the original one on each end.
Back onto the lathe on the new centers to turn the " sides " off the oval,finished with a rub with Linseed oil. Took a bit over an hour to turn the first one,plus the timber prep time so I'm no threat to the $16 Chinese ones.
Interesting to do, but half a dozen will be enough. One thing I did learn though. Turning in the round 900mm long 40mm dia in the middle it wanted to "flutter" even with a very light touch, but cutting the sides off was no
problem, maybe because I was cutting so much air. Finished Photo alongside a Bunny's $16 one.IMG_20150902_105646.jpgIMG_20150902_114814.jpgIMG_20150902_114846.jpgFirst pic with one "side"cut. Wood is still green so I'll have to wait before I
put the heads on. Thanks for looking. Phil.
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2nd September 2015, 02:30 PM #6Senior Member
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For turning long spindles - look up the simple support in this vid, starting from 3:15 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_eJ1IS6U3A
I also have a feeling that larger speeds make spindles a bit more steady...
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7th September 2015, 03:34 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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Well got the half dozen done, left them thick just under the head where the dramas happen.
I'll do a couple of mattock handles next while I'm in the swing of it. PhilIMG_20150907_134533.jpgIMG_20150907_134515.jpgIMG_20150907_134457.jpg
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9th September 2015, 11:44 AM #8Hewer of wood
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Admirable work pp. Spotty should work well.
Cheers, Ern
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