Thread: Green turning cherry.

Originally Posted by tea lady

...............I turned the bottoms down ready for the chuck. Loaded one up with the tail stock for support. And the foot was broken off at the first catch. "Oh! Drat!" I said.

I reckon you've been spending TOO much time with the 'proper turner' - I've seen him do that sort of thing too but you're only supposed to mimic the good stuff

good idea with the salad servers - I really hate them flopping anywhere in the bowl

TL, the acacia will be beautiful as is with finish, and will sell faster than if it did not have the skillfully sculptured notch.

Yep; a thumb notch so's the thumbnail can add a certain piquancy to the salad dressing ;-}

Originally Posted by Texian

TL, the acacia will be beautiful as is with finish, and will sell faster than if it did not have the skillfully sculptured notch.

Originally Posted by rsser

Yep; a thumb notch so's the thumbnail can add a certain piquancy to the salad dressing ;-}

But how do I do it again?

Tea Lady,

You must be feeling fresh enough. Cheeky, as always.

Now, must be teaching you a different way of turning bowls and platters that he did for me....

What I do is turn the base first - then spigot, recess or glue block, it doesn't matter - then reverse then hollow. With or without tailstock support. I think that is a safer method than the one shown in your pics. That way, nothing flies out of the lathe if your mushroom stem breaks and the spur drive loses compression.....

Or am I missing something?

And I would prefer to scrape with my Ci1 when scraping a long way over the rest. That little 12mm scraper I gave you needs to be worked closer to the rest IMHO.

A pouring spout how innovative I think you need a bowl saver.

good tute, thanks.

One plus in leaving some mass inside while hollowing is to reduce wall flex. Partic if you want to go thin, then you go down in stages rather than getting a rough shape first off and then thinning down.

Originally Posted by rsser

One plus in leaving some mass inside while hollowing is to reduce wall flex. Partic if you want to go thin, then you go down in stages rather than getting a rough shape first off and then thinning down.

...on the other hand, it's a lot more fun to thin out the base area and then work on up to the rim

TL, won't take long before your a double pro threat...pottery and turning

Ed, you like to live dangerously!

I can rarely get right back to the rim while scraping without getting spiral cuts which take forever to sand out, and the thrumming noise that signals them is the red light for me.

Originally Posted by jefferson

What I do is turn the base first - then spigot, recess or glue block, it doesn't matter - then reverse then hollow. With or without tailstock support.
Or am I missing something?
That's what I did in the first place. But when I had a catch the foot broke off. Even had tail stock support. maybe green timber is not so strong? One advantage of this way is that when it is dry you can put it back between centers to turn the foot spigot round again to fit the chuck. Its also a cross grain bowl. Maybe end grain bowls don't loose the foot as easily. Catches didn't seem to have as catastrophic effect as when it was gripped in the chuck.

And I would prefer to scrape with my Ci1 when scraping a long way over the rest. That little 12mm scraper I gave you needs to be worked closer to the rest IMHO.

The thickness of the little scaper is quite good I reckon. Seemed to take the stress quite well. No bike clips needed. Although if I HAD a Ci1 rougher I would prolly do it with that.

Originally Posted by rsser

One plus in leaving some mass inside while hollowing is to reduce wall flex. Partic if you want to go thin, then you go down in stages rather than getting a rough shape first off and then thinning down.

Yes. That worked quite well.

Originally Posted by Ed Reiss

TL, won't take long before your a double pro threat...pottery and turning