Thread: Turning Green Wood

Originally Posted by Robbo1954

Hi All,
I'm new to wood turning and have been turning for about 11 months. At first I was unsure if I would be any good at it but always wanted to try. I started with a GMC and have now moved to the carba tec mc1100A.

I have made a number of bowls, lidded boxes and pot pourri containers. I managed to source some wood from a neighbour (a tree he was cutting down) I believe it is blood wood.

I have cut and sealed the logs, but I have not been able to resist turning some. It is easy enough to turn but obviously it is shrinking and changing. The pot pourri bowls need to be re turned as the bowl shrinks around the lid. My question is....Is there a way to speed up the drying or to minimise the shrinking? How long should the wood be stored before using? This particular wood was cut about 6weeks ago

Cheers
Chris

G'day Chris

Try this site and scroll down to "drying techniques" I have been experimenting with several of the techniques mentioned and have above average success with soaking in denatured alcohol. I have found though that what works for one timber does not necessarily work for another.
http://rwallace.public.iastate.edu/WTlinks.html
Cheers
Shorty

As a vague rule of thumb when leaving to dry naturally, the wood needs to be stored one year for every inch of thickness. YMMV.

There're a whole slew of techniques to "speed up" drying, but as Shorty said: none are 100% successful on all woods all the time. Most are effective for a certain wood type, ineffective on others and ruinous n yet others. So one tends to use two or three methods that work on the types of wood that one generally has access to. (Ooer! Doesn't one sound royal talking like this? )

Anyways, if I have a pile of a new wood come in and I can't wait for it to dry, feeling the need to turn "just one small piece now so I know what it's like" then I'm a big fan of nuking it in the microwave. My method has already been posted on these forums somewhere - several times. (I trust that you'll forgive me but I can't be bothered searching for it to give you a link right now. )

Hmmm... what other methods have I tried? The DNA method works on a wide variety of timbers, as does LDD, but in the long run they both become rather stinky processes. Sometimes it was an effort to reach into that 44gal drum full of what smellt like raw sewerage even though I knew 'twas just LDD and there were treasures hidden in there...

I know, I know... "DNA? LDD? Are they some form of drug" Do a search on these forums for either of those terms and you'll end up with more info on forced drying techniques than any sane man would want to know. (But who says turners are sane, eh? )

FWIW, DNA is DeNatured Alcohol (aka Methylated Spirits) and LDD is Liquid Dishwashing Detergent.

I rough turn green blanks & leave them oversize... about 30 or 40 mm wall thickness.
If they are sappy & susceptible to going moldy, I'll put them in a tub of water & change the water when ever it gets dark.
I find that is the best thing to do with mango.
I have also frozen the washed roughed blank for a week or two & then washed it again to get rid of more sap/cell moisture released by the freezing process.

I've tried microwaving & it does work but you have to be careful 'cos you can over do it & it will crack anyway... (don't let the dragon catch you )

I've also tried chucking rough turned blanks in the fridge with limited success, it does draw the water out of the blank but, it makes the fridge smell like wood & it doesn't always stop the mold.

Many thanks, this gives me some areas to research and test.

cheers
Chris

G'day Robbo1954,

Everyone goes through the same questions and doubts, so don't feel embarrassed to ask the questions, someone will respond...!
Have a look at this recent thread, you will find some good hints on it, http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=75926

Good luck and plenty of green turning...!

Cheers
RBTCO