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28th September 2007, 08:20 PM #1
"Best" handle length for bowl gouge
Hi All
I recently purchased a 13mm replaceable bowl gouge tip from woodcut and made my own shank and handle for it. The overall length length of shank/tip is 325mm (13") and the handle is 420mm (16.5")long & 32mm (1.25") dia. I have drilled the deep enough so that the shank can be fitted in to the handle up to 100mm giving an overall length of between 650mm and 720mm. Question: is the handle too long as I can easily part off some of the length?
Don't worry about the funny colour of the shank it's probably flare off the flash, the shank is made of stainless steel and the handle aluminium (pronounced al-you-min-ee-um) .To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional
Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
What could possibly go wrong.
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28th September 2007, 08:25 PM #2
That is one large gouge. Mine are all about 500 max.
Mick
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28th September 2007, 08:40 PM #3
Long is good - it gives you better control and increased depth of cut. ie. you can overhang more steel over the toolrest without the increased leverage getting the better of you.
Even for the smaller tools where leverage isn't as important (eg. for captive rings, etc. which are more about finesse than hogging out) a long handle - in relation to steel size - gives better fine control.
I like my handles to be around 1 1/2 times the length of cutting steel... except for my deep boring oland's, 'cos then I'd have tools some 4 or 5 foot long and I wouldn't have room to use 'em in my shed.
- Andy Mc
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28th September 2007, 08:49 PM #4Hewer of wood
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Good question GJ.
Some of the things you might consider:
1. Length of tool overhang, from fulcrum to tip (more overhang means you may need a longer handle)
2. Length of tool 'underhang', from fulcrum to handle end; the more this figure is the more you're likely to foul the ways, (excepting swivel headstocks) depending on ..
3. Length of gouge bevel angle at the tip; the longer it is the more 2. becomes an issue
4. Balance of the tool sitting on the fulcrum
5. How hard you're going in with the cutting; the harder you go the better a long handle will be.
I'm waiting for a Woodcut 13mm tip as it happens; my rule of thumb is roughly to equal the lengths of shaft and handle, but with curved rests can reduce that readily.
But the proof of the pudding is ...Cheers, Ern
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28th September 2007, 10:13 PM #5To grow old is inevitable.... To grow up is optional
Confidence, the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
What could possibly go wrong.
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28th September 2007, 10:20 PM #6
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28th September 2007, 10:37 PM #7
G'day Grumpy
Without going out to the shed, I think my 1/2" bowl gouge is about 500 or 600mm, will check it tomorrow and let you know.
Just a suggestion here, I had a handle similar in size to what you've got there till some bastard took off with it and I knurled mine cause it was hard and cold on the hand. The knurling made it warmer and more comfortable to holdCheers
DJ
ADMIN
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28th September 2007, 10:42 PM #8
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29th September 2007, 12:32 AM #9I was tossing up whether to knurl or fit a foam rubber tube over the handle.Inspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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29th September 2007, 12:45 AM #10
I wouldn't cut anything off unless you've given it a really good try-out and found a reason to cut some off . A long while back I made one very similar using a length of tube from an old motorbike fork leg and cut 4" off just because it 'didn't look right'. Now every time I use it on a deep form I'm looking for that extra 4"
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29th September 2007, 02:13 AM #11
I fully agree with leaving it long. The only reason to go shorter is if it bangs into something while using it - very, very disconcerting to control then. As said, the tailstock can be pulled, and there's store-bought and DIY solutions for swing-away or swing down. Other potential obstacles are car/truck, drill press, band saw, wall and such. Except for the wall, they can be moved too.
As for appearance, it's only a tool. Nice to exercise some finesse of course, but that's all. My DIY Oland tools have plain ol' cold rolled shanks. I hit them with crocus cloth when they get particularly rusty, but mostly to avoid rust stains elsewhere.
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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29th September 2007, 11:34 AM #12Hewer of wood
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Hmm, just took a look at my gouges; they're closer to Skew's 1:1.5 than my own estimate. (so much for ready, fire, aim ;-} ..)
... Another covering option is a length of flywire rubber gasket wrapped around the handle. There's a post somewhere on the dub dub dub about it.Cheers, Ern
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30th September 2007, 01:27 PM #13
John brought this in to work yesterday & I had a gander - very noice
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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30th September 2007, 02:51 PM #14
The woodcut tools are available locally
http://www.cws.au.com./cgi/index.cgi..._id=1107146629
or if you can wait they will be on our stand a the Melbourne Wood Show in 2 weeks time.Jim Carroll
One Good Turn Deserves Another. CWS, Vicmarc, Robert Sorby, Woodcut, Tormek, Woodfast
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30th September 2007, 05:25 PM #15Hewer of wood
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Thanks Jim.
You should sell a heap; good gouge tips at a good price that shouldn't be hard to fit to a shed-made shaft and handle.
Are you stocking the 13mm gouge tip with threaded rod?
... what else will you have? Will the Woodcut holder to mount a chuck to the banjo be in?Cheers, Ern
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