Thread: has this happened to you

Same here.

NOT YET!!!

But I use it all the time. I have a Versa Chuck and the screw that comes with it is pretty substantial. I can't remember the last time I used a faceplate although I don't often turn stuff much bigger than 12" diameter. I ALWAYS use the tailstock though, even with small stuff.

After seeing that, I will double check the squareness of the hole a bit more carefully.

Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner

I've abused a Glaser stainless steel thread for 20 years and never had a problem.

Cheers

Tim

In case anyone is trying to track one down (I found it quite hard to do so when Tim & recommended it in an earlier thread), here it is Glaser Hitec Screw Chuck Replacement Screw 3/8" , but just the screw component.

The standard spindle threads that the Glaser screw body is manufactured in doesn't include our 30 x 3.5mm size. So, some boring may be required to retrofit the screw to one of our standard faceplates.

I've yet to order mine, so if anyone else wants me to add a few extra let me know. Depending on what shipping method they insist upon (courier costs are much higher than standard US post) there may be no advantage in batch shipping such a small item and it might be just as easy for individuals to order directly from Glaser.

Originally Posted by NeilS

The standard spindle threads that the Glaser screw body is manufactured in doesn't include our 30 x 3.5mm size. So, some boring may be required to retrofit the screw to one of our standard faceplates.

Neil, couldn't you get a chuck insert from Vicmarc/Vermec/Nova, if Glaser are M33x3.5? The actual screws look like they are set screwGlaser SCREWCHUCK1-2-screw mod.jpg retained, not screwed in like the Woodfast screw chuck.

The easy option is to purchase a Vicmarc 3 in 1 screw chuck.

These use a Glasser screw and give you 3 sizes of backing plate for the screw..

From memory around 100 bucks.

Cheers

Tim

The Woodfast screw chuck also uses a Glaser type.

Originally Posted by

The Woodfast screw chuck also uses a Glaser type.

Tha'ts interesting .

I've never seen a glasser type Parallel thread screw on a Woodfast chuck.

Is this something new?

Any chance of a photo?

All the Woodfast Screw chucks I've seen have a screw in type screw.

This screw was the week point of this chuck, they used to snap real easy.

I would hazard a guess and say that this screw was the largest (in quantity) selling spare part that Woodfast ever sold.

Cheers

Tim

Originally Posted by Pat

Neil, couldn't you get a chuck insert from Vicmarc/Vermec/Nova, if Glaser are M33x3.5?

Pat, I take it that those chuck bodies all have a M33x3.5 internal thread (I don't have one at hand to measure). But, if so, their inserts should work on the Glaser body, although it doesn't seem like that would leave much meat between M33 and the M30 (on most of our lathes) for an insert.

Originally Posted by Pat

The actual screws look like they are set screw retained, not screwed in like the Woodfast screw chuck.

Glaser SCREWCHUCK1-2-screw mod.jpg

As Tim said, the later Woodfast screw chucks (which they call a Screw Point Chuck) has the double ended screw that screws into the faceplate. I also have an earlier model Woodfast screw chuck that secures the screw in the same way as the Glaser, but don't imagine there are too many of them about.

Tim - I would say the thread on the Woodfast Screw Point Chuck is parallel; see image half way down this page. However, I seem to snap them too often to be worth the trouble.

Hmmm... just spotted their Screw Spigot Chuck (a bit lower down that page) which looks like my older Woodfast screw chuck but with a much larger thread (like a tap) on it. Don't reckon you would snap that one in a hurry! Might be worth a try.

Besides the Vicmarc 3 in 1 screw chuck (thanks Tim), Vermec also sell a replacement screw for their Escoulen ball thingy, that could be retrofitted to something.

However, none of these screws are made from stainless steel like the Glaser screw, which may be an advantage that is worth the extra $s and trouble, or not.

why not just drill it with a 54mm bit and put it on your 50mm jaws. I do


Ian

Originally Posted by ian thorn

why not just drill it with a 54mm bit and put it on your 50mm jaws. I do


Ian

Been there, done that. It wasn't my preferred method.

But, your not alone Ian, others also prefer to do it that way, like Robo Hippy who turns out bowls in the thousands.

At that drill diameter I found I couldn't satisfactorily drill the recess freehand and had to do it on a drill press which then required extra setting up time, given that the backs of my blanks (the bottom) aren't usually flat. If you buy blanks or prepare them yourself with a flat (and parallel) back then that may not be such an issue.

Since I have already drilled a centre-pin hole in the face of my blanks for rounding on the bandsaw, I find it very quick to then just spin the smaller blanks onto the screw chuck and start turning.

Being able to reverse a blank onto the same chuck for turning the inside has its advantages if you are turning one piece at time through to finish. I tend to turn in batches (all the outsides then the insides) so have less chuck swapping, anyway.

I also do all of my bowl turning outboard (without tailstock support) and found the drilled recess method didn't hold onto the blanks any better than the centre screw method or as well as the faceplate method, but am aware that others find it adequate or prefer it.

I think I still have an old Leady (Bruce Leadbetter) expanding chuck that was specifically designed for use with the recess method and probably also have that dedicated 'mortice bit' that went with it; both gathering dust and rust in the bottom of a drawer somewhere...