Thread: Headstock woes cheap lathes

Hi Tiger,

Take the lathe out fishing with you and come home without it.

Life's too short to

A Drink cheap wine
B Drink instant coffee
C Mess about with kit like that

Happy fishing!!


Old Pete

however you do lose the ability to swivel the headstock when you want to turn outboard and in other positions.

Tiger, the mods I did too mine I was still able to turn out board. The 10mm grub screws only locked onto the part that allowed the headstock to slide up and down the bed.

Have a look at yours there will be a stepped block that fits onto the bed. The grub screws came through the bed and lock on to it. Two either side, I figured I could get by with out the sliding action. But still wanted the out board option.

The only other change I recommend is to change the locking nut to a nylock nut, this way you will hold your setting as lock it down.

If its not too clear pm and I will hunt up some more pics with more detailed explanation.

Hmm I should do that to mine as well. Mine does seem to lock down quite snug though so haven't been in any rush to modify it. One day.

here you go, a chunk of camphor laurel turned on the MC1100 after the head stock mods and you can see the out board turning gear to the right in the back ground

Thanks Hughie. My lathe doesn't have a sliding option. If you have more information about your setup I'd like to see. I am having a little trouble seeing how you retain the swivel ability. By the way which locking nut are you referring to?

Originally Posted by hughie

here you go, a chunk of camphor laurel turned on the MC1100 after the head stock mods and you can see the out board turning gear to the right in the back ground

Hughie, that's impressive but wouldn't you need to drill a number of holes, one for 45, one for 90, one for 180 etc. if you wanted to move the headstock in different positions?

One issue with these from what I see is the realignment of head and tail stocks after swinging the head stock outboard.
This can be solved with a Morse Taper Alignment Tool. The only one I managed to get came from the US, Packard Woodworks for US$47 including postage, as CWS did not have any.
This tool will give you almost perfect alignment but it is not 100%. There can always be that smudge of a fraction of a millimetre out.

If you really want to be picky there is the perpendicularness of the face plate to the spindle, front edge of the tool rest straight, and a few other little worries.

Isn't life fun..

that's impressive but wouldn't you need to drill a number of holes, one for 45, one for 90, one for 180 etc. if you wanted to move the headstock in different positions?

Tiger, No the grub screws work lower and below the swivel.
I will have to get more pics of the lathe. It'll take me a few days as I given it away to a mate of mine.

Thanks Hughie. Pictures would be great.

Originally Posted by hughie

Have a look at yours there will be a stepped block that fits onto the bed. The grub screws came through the bed and lock on to it. Two either side, I figured I could get by with out the sliding action. But still wanted the out board option.

Hughie, I think my WL-18 with the 900 between centres has a different construction to yours. Had a look at mine and couldn't see the stepped block.

think my WL-18 with the 900 between centres has a different construction to yours. Had a look at mine and couldn't see the stepped block.

I'll have scratch around my area for some who has a 900 and have a look at it then get back to you.

Originally Posted by hughie

I'll have scratch around my area for some who has a 900 and have a look at it then get back to you.

Thanks, Hughie. Be interested in seeing what you can come up with.

Originally Posted by Tiger

I have written before about the undesired headstock movement on the WL18 or MC900 type lathes. The poor casting (?) on the trapping mechanism that traps the swivel base is to blame and this causes wobble as Hughie has mentioned as well as some spindle turning misalignment for the tailstock because it pushes the workpiece against the headstock and raises it slightly. Hughie came up with a fix whereby he drilled and tapped holes into the bed and that lined up with lugs in the headstock and that kept the headstock from moving, however you do lose the ability to swivel the headstock when you want to turn outboard and in other positions. I tried a different solution where I tried to trap the headstock by using 2 bits of plate and forcing a nut to bring the 2 bits of plate together, this hasn't been a satisfactory solution, so... I'm now going to revisit this perennial problem. This problem may be insoluble but if anyone has any thoughts/ideas on how to once and for all secure up the headstock and still allow for swivelling, please share.

I have a WL18 and have also had some issues with the headstock trapping mechanism. The headstock wouldnt seem to tighten firmly to the bed and so caused wobble even though the handle was tightened very firmly. I loosened the trapping handle alot, realigned the clamping piece under the handle and retightened it and it has been fine now for quite a while.The headstock doesnt lift on spindle work and it aligns with the tailstock to within 2 mm. Hey, I know its only a cheap lathe but I'm happy with it. No dramas swinging headstock around now either.
If you have no joy, I suggest remove the headstock and find exactly where there is play. I would replace the faulty piece rather than adding plates and nuts etc. Hare and Forbes have been helpful with my WL18. Your supplier may also.

Geoff

Hi tiger - with my WL 18HD i used a socket underneath and tightened up the nut that is used to adjust the cam thingy - found that was ok to keep it still. - just means i dont have the cam hnadle anymore i just use the socket and bar when i want to move it..

Cheers

DAvid