Thread: Help with timber??

Hmmm, size depends on what you want to turn. But for me I keep logs 150-200mm and up. Big stuff [ 250mm and up] I split down the centre to remove the perth and seal the end grain, check regular in the first couple of months to see how they are doing and maybe slop some more sealer on. Small stuff leave as logs bark and all [around 500-600mm long ] and seal the ends chuck it in cool spot and forget.

To keep your choices open make sure the lopper cuts up any decent size log into pieces no less than a little longer than their diameter.

mate, ALL those timbers could provide useful turning material if dried correctly.Some bowl sized blanks or boards could be had depending on size and crotch pieces and root stock always has more figure..blackbean is good stuff for woodwork..and i wouldnt mind trying some african tulip.

Exador (craig) from Eco urban Timbers at Archerfield, who inhabits these forums will probably take it off your hands or maybe mill it into useful chunks..no point in wasting potentially useful timber..

Even if you dont want it cut it up into chunks and offer it to forum members...you will get plenty of takers for free timbers...

You only need small branches for pen blanks like 15 mm or 22 mm but you will get plenty from that stash..

cheeeeeers
john

Hi DoctorBobski

Shame that I'm so far, I could cut all those trees for you, in exchange for some mixed wood. Anyway, I have been using a product that works pretty well and quick on most timbers I cut and want to keep for turning. I have also have excellent results in turning green/wet timber and soaking the PIECE with this product. It soaks like anything you've seen before, and according to the manufacturer, prevents timber "movement". I can say that 70% of the PIECES that still are in one single piece, is due to this stuff. So using it on the log ends and on the exposed surfaces on the ones you split in half, would be the way. Just one piece of advice, for quantities, is well worth the 1x gallon (under $50) as it will cost the same as 2x1 litre cans, and you will need plenty.

Good luck
Cheers
GV

Yeah, sure, I have to forget the most important bit, didn't I, hahahahaha.

Here it goes,

FeastWatson - FUNGISHIELD

Cheers
GV

Good point GV. Some cut timbers will stain from fungus before you can say 'oh sh*t'.

Does the product also seal the grain?

Yes, it does to a point, I only have to use the sending sealer now, on maybe 15% of the original use. Some resilient timbers still require a second coat of sending sealer, to completely seal the grain.
I have also experienced good results, with a mix 50/50 of Fungishield and Proofseal. Just a matter of choice!

Cheers
GV