Thread: Hiking Poles

I've got no experience of doing the joint in the middle of a hiking stick. But I connect the tops/handles to my sticks with threaded bar and epoxy.

Could you turn the stick as long as possible on your lathe then attach the top end in a different wood (nice branch fork or something).

Hence reducing the bend stress when pressure is put on it while using it as a support.

Farnk,

what timber are you making the POLES from??

This may be the problem, what dia is the hole and dowel , any gap in the join will create a weakness(between dowel and hole sides & bottom & top) . Small bleed holes(1.5mm) along the join line will allow any excess glue and air to escape.

Hi Farnk - As dr4gOnfly suggested by adding a length to the bottom of the stick and leaving the top as long as possible to maintain the strength. I have done something similar and added to both ends but in my case it was just for decoration (as I have a long bed Vicmarc Lathe). I joined the timbers with a turned tenon on one end and drilled the other section to fit. It's a stick that's had a lot of use and I've had no problems. Hiking sticks are great to make, you can really have a lot of fun with them. I'll include some pics of some of mine. The first stick is one I've used almost every day for the last twelve years and would have at least 100,000km on it. A nice straight piece of Jarrah and very strong. The second one is my royal staff to wander around Floriade with the Queen when she comes to town. The third one is my greeny stick - Jarrah with a carved and painted frog (first and only carving). The fourth stick is just a trimmed piece of Pittosporum branch.

Can you please post some pictures of your sticks?

Fredo

I doubt they will stand up to hiking pole use but these might be an option or at least give some possible directions to go?

Thanks all,

The two recent ones were made of sassafras and vic ash.
Both broke at the join, where the dowel was just not strong enough. (3/8") I had taken care to ensure that the glue join was sound and there were no gaps or air bubbles.

Thinking the problem over, I reckon that my best way forward is to turn the poles in a single piece, then add a separate handle and brass foot.

The challenge now is to construct something or modify the lathe that will allow such a distance between centres. I've got a spare electric motor in the shed, so I might go old school and make a wooden bed lathe with some 200x200 or such.

f

When I was in the scouts, back in the middle ages, each of us cut an appropriate sized sapling and decorated it with a pocket knife. Much better for the boys to make a staff for themselves, it has more meaning then.
Jim

Yes, that would be more in keeping with traditional Scout lore, however it is an offence to remove growing or dead timber from crown land nowdays. We still teach correct use / care of knives but don't encourace the kids to carve / whittle anymore.

In making these poles, I'm trying to personally recognise the efforts made by a few of the kids in the troop.

Originally Posted by Farnk

Yes, that would be more in keeping with traditional Scout lore, however it is an offence to remove growing or dead timber from crown land nowdays. We still teach correct use / care of knives but don't encourace the kids to carve / whittle anymore.

Surely there is some one near with an acreage that could help?
Jim

Originally Posted by powderpost

When I was in the scouts, back in the middle ages, each of us cut an appropriate sized sapling and decorated it with a pocket knife. Much better for the boys to make a staff for themselves, it has more meaning then.
Jim

We did something similar. When the F3 was being put through in the north of Sydney, we were allowed to go in and clear small saplings for use. We used brands to burn decorations in them (would that be allowed in Scouts these days ???) and put a name plate on each. The idea being that when we left scouts, we handed it down and they added their name plate to it, etc. They were pretty rough finished (ie, pocket knives, etc - not turned)



Several years later, I joined back up with that Scout troop (as a leader) and found my original stave. Very cool Oh, and we used them on parade as well.


I just remembered that they were mostly made out of Privett tree saplings, which are a weed and can be removed no probs. They are also strong and grow straight making them ideal.
Cheers,
Dave

Thanks very much for the suggestions.
I've since turned 4 new poles from a mixture of timbers.
(Jarrah, blackwood, sandalwood, plus a suprisingly common species in my workshop idea non cruentum)

I've gone with the suggested method of turning the lower section as long as possible with a 16mm tenon on the end. I've kept the upper section shorter and fitted a separate handle via another tenon.

A while ago I picked up a 3 point steady for the MC900 and this proved invaluable in turning the thin lower sections.

Now glued and rough sanded, these poles are much stronger than my earlier efforts and should be up to the job. I'll give them a coat of oil, burnish them up and post a pic.

Thanks again!

Sounds good. Would love to see the pics

Cheers,
Dave