Thread: Hollowing tool handle sizes

Shannon,
If I make any more hollower handles I will make them double ended, i.e. 32mm dia handle, ream one end 12mm and ream the other end 1/2". Do the same for 16mm and 5/8" shaft. For me these are the most common sizes. As for depth I usually ream 100mm deep, just coz it's 100 deep doesn't mean you have to put the shaft all the way into the handle.

Hope this helps and doesn't add to the confusion.

Originally Posted by Grumpy John

FWIW I make all my handles from 32mm dia.(1 1/4") aluminium stock, then drill and ream to suit shaft. I wrap the handle with bicycle handlebar tape for grip and comport.

Being a fitter GJ have you thought of threading the end of the shaft and tapping the handle? Or you just go for big enough grub screws. Some I have seen have pretty piddly screws compared to the size of the tool as a whole, not to mention stripping out etc etc.

Apart from GJ's I guess, are the handles usually just solid wood or are they sleeved to take the tang?

Have a look at the pics on this site.

The Vermec base model has a 19mm shaft with a 12mm spigot going 50mm into a snug fit socket in the end of a 25mm handle, the shank on the shaft goes neatly up against the end of the handle.
The tang has a small flat on it that a hefty grub screw holds in place.
Any catch big enough to do damage to something that size is more likely to knock my face shield off & give my a clip on the ear first.

Originally Posted by Robomanic

Being a fitter GJ have you thought of threading the end of the shaft and tapping the handle? Or you just go for big enough grub screws. Some I have seen have pretty piddly screws compared to the size of the tool as a whole, not to mention stripping out etc etc.

Apart from GJ's I guess, are the handles usually just solid wood or are they sleeved to take the tang?

Shannon,
If the fit of the shaft into the handle is neat enough you don't need massive grub screws, I find M6 x 10 gets the job done. As for stripping the thread, again if the fit is neat no need for massive forces.

Cheers
GJ

Originally Posted by Robomanic

....Apart from GJ's I guess, are the handles usually just solid wood or are they sleeved to take the tang?

The Vermec one is 25mm steel with a foam grip on it.
The 'customer/operator' end of the handle is hollow & filled with loose lead shot for balance & damping.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Have a look at the pics on this site.

Any catch big enough to do damage to something that size is more likely to knock my face shield off & give my a clip on the ear first.

Yeah i'll pay 50mm if its going into metal and not wood. Likewise for the grub screws GJ - M6x10 should be nice and solid. Starting to get some real inspiration now - lookout local scrappies

Exiting slacking off at work mode.....
Entering driving home from work mode....

Shannon
Some piccies.
Pict. 1 & 2 Store bought munro hollower 5/8" shaft.
Pict. 3 & 4 3/4" bowl gouge Homemade 32mm handle shaft turned down to 18.5 mm because I couldn't find a 19mm or 3/4" reamer in the store at work .
Pict. 5 & 6 1/2" bowl gouge Home made 32mm handle reamed 1/2".
Pict. 7 Home made rougher with 1/2" shaft to suit above handle.
Pict 8. Oland tool with 12mm shaft into 25mm dia. handle (have to get some tape for this handle).
Pict. 9 Gooseneck tool with 12mm shaft to suit above handle.
Pict. 10 Hollower 700mm long TIG welded s/s 30mm dia. handle 30 x 10 shaft, takes 1/4" sq. HSS bit.

Shafts are either stainless or 4140 tool steel.

likely to knock my face shield off & give my a clip on the ear first.

Robomanic,

I make allot of my own and tend to stick with 19-20mm shafts, tang invariably 10mm and 75mm long 50mm is IMHO way to short.

I have a few skinny ones ie 12mm but the shaft steel is real slick stuff, around $90 per metre. Even with 12 mm shaft I have the tang 10mm and glue them in with Araldite or similar epoxy glue.


Nice work Grumpy John, thumbs up

I've noticed a lot of people using fairly small diameter shafts for Oland tools. This severely limits their use, to only light hollowing or final cuts. Chatter is the enemy. If I had my beast with the 1" shaft at 's you'd have seen where they really excel: hogging out.

Hughie's olands are as good as any I've seen, in that they have a heavy shaft. (I'm expecting good performance from them.)

In my experience a 10x50mm tang is adequate for normal use, as there's little load on the joint. It's not like it's under load while overhanging the tool-rest... or I sincerely hope not!

However, I put a LOT of effort into my big oland (enough to lever wood off the faceplate at times ) and feel a lot more secure knowing it has more than a mere 50mm length of tang...

Even so, I was impressed with the tools GJ took to Robbos. Good start! Now he just needs to beef up the next version...

Wow....what a lot of drama about sizing a hole, getting tired just reading 'bout it!

Sure am glad that all the hollowing tools I use fit into 2 categories :

1) 3 foot long, 1/2 inch cold rolled steel - drilled and tapped to hold a 1/4 inch tool bit.

2) 3 foot long, 3/8 inch cold rolled steel - drilled and tapped to hold a 3/8 inch tool bit.

Keepin' It Simple

Originally Posted by hughie

Nice work Grumpy John, thumbs up

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Even so, I was impressed with the tools GJ took to Robbos. Good start! Now he just needs to beef up the next version...

Thanks for the kind words fellas, didn't even know what an Oland tool was when I made it. The idea just popped into my head at work one day and there was some stainless just lying around , next thing you know I've got another tool.

Originally Posted by Ed Reiss

....

1) 3 foot long, 1/2 inch cold rolled steel - drilled and tapped to hold a 1/4 inch tool bit.

2) 3 foot long, 3/8 inch cold rolled steel - drilled and tapped to hold a 3/8 inch tool bit.

Keepin' It Simple

How do you hold a 3/8 bit to a 3/8 shaft?

I'm guessing that it is a typo & should be a 5/8 shaft.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

How do you hold a 3/8 bit to a 3/8 shaft?

I'm guessing that it is a typo & should be a 5/8 shaft.

Yea...that damn 3 key keeps getting in the way of the 5

BTW GJ...good job on the tool!