Thread: Hollowing tools

I've got the Proforme and the Flexi and love them both! I've tried some of the others and reckon the Woodcuts are the best but that's just me. How deep are you hollowing with the Procut and how are you holding it???? I wouldn't use mine freehand over about 6" deep - captured rig is the way to go for anything deeper. Check mine out here!

Nice site you have there. The cuts are not that deep but the whole lathe seems to vibrate. I think i have a bolting down issue here. I solved the prob with the woodcut. I used a chainsaw diamond burr and polished the inside of the cutter, then finished it with an arkansas stone. Works better now. I have to broach the lathe issue now. Thanx for the link. Nice site. I also use a 10mm drill bit, with a kind of thumbnail grind favouring one side. That makes an excellent hollowing tool. Cheers. Ian

Ian good to see you are getting the hang of the tool.
As Vern pointed out it has a lot to do with the set up of the tip as too much exposure can cause a lot of greif.
Also the way you are holding the tool, tuck the handle under your arm so it has full support of your arm and body, do not try to hold it like a conventional tool as you will not have enough strengh.
Learn on vases first so you can see where and how the tip works before going into hollow forms.

Just out of interest: What sort of lathe? How deep were you trying it out on?
How was it mounted, Chuck, faceplate?

I have most brands and types of hollowers. All have their strengths (and weaknesses). IMO the Pro-forme is among the best.

Articulated arms could have a place if you do a lot of hollowing (to justify the cost) and find free hand hollowing challenging/tiring/back breaking.

Try slightly raising or lowering the point of contact of your Proform .I have also found rotating the tip slightly anticlockwise helps.If you don't have one, a Phil Irons type toolrest makes a world of difference . You can buy these or make your own if you have some metalwork skills .
Ted

Take all of those suggestions and try them out on a shallow bowl.

Watch, feel, listen; change tool presentation and repeat.

Use a medium density wood blank. Green wood is good. (Some woods are a PITA and not for beginners).

Originally Posted by

Just out of interest: What sort of lathe? How deep were you trying it out on?
How was it mounted, Chuck, faceplate?

I have a carbatec lathe, heavy duty one, and do most hollowing on a face plate. I did find that one of the dyna-bolts holding the headstock end down wasn't tight. I put a spacer under the nut and re- tightened. That did the trick. No more vibration. I think I have ground the pro- forme cutter head the wrong shape and not getting even contact with the wood, hence the chatter. I think I will need a new cutter head as they are difficult to shape free- hand. More practice needed I think. Ian

I think I have ground the pro- forme cutter head the wrong shape and not getting even contact with the wood, hence the chatter. I think I will need a new cutter head as they are difficult to shape free- hand. More practice needed I think. Ian

they normaly dont require any grinding right from the beginning and then a light touch up with a diamond stone. Did you get yours second hand?

Originally Posted by hughie

they normaly dont require any grinding right from the beginning and then a light touch up with a diamond stone. Did you get yours second hand?

Well, being an old fitter & turner i mistakenly touched up the outside curve instead of the inside. Damn! I have a spare and I will try to re- shape this one. Cheers Ian

As hughie has indicated there is no need for reshaping, maybe a slight touch up with a diamond lap is all that is needed.