Thread: Hot Melt Glue for Glue Blocks - Yes or No

Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner

Most problems are caused by not having the glue hot enough or letting it get cool down before bringing the surfaces together.

I don't use Jims method of using a circle as I find the glue cools too quickly.

I have turned hundreds of lidded boxes 100 mm diameter by 80mm high using the following method with only a couple of failures. Mostly on a really cold day when the glue gets a bit brittle.

I use 3 larger dobs of glue near the outer diameter and allow the glue to squeeze out a little.

The larger dobs mean the glue stays hotter longer and allow more time for position the glue block.

The squeeze out shows me where to position the bench chisel for removing, which I do with smart tap of a hammer.

300mm platters can be held the same way but using 4 or 5 dobs.

One tip is to make sure there is no dust on the surfaces as this will affect the performance of the glue.

My $0.02 worth.

Cheers
Tim

Thanks Tim. The only bit I'm wary of is the bench chisel. The very old, dry Tas Oak I've been working with lately chips and splinters easily. I like the metho + patience method. I dribble in the metho all around the edges continuously while putting slight upward pressure on the block. It soon lets go and does no damage to the surfaces. I've even done it with a finished (sanded) surface without leaving a mark anywhere and gone straight on to put on coats of finish.

Whatever method of applying the glue you use, you really need to be ready to bring the tailstock up and centred BEFORE you apply the glue. That way, either method (circle or dobs) should work. If it's a little cold, I'll add some more hot melt on the outside of the joint. Never had a failure using that method. Did once with warm glue on a cold day but it was only a small box so no drama.

I'm not saying you have to use a chisel.

That's what I do.

You should use whatever works for you.

I mean you could use red wine if it worked for you.

Personally I would consider that to be a waste, and would revert to my trusty bench chisel.

Cheers
Tim

Other matter to consider is the longevity of the glue joint. In my experience in the tropics the Bostick brand is reasonably OK if you leave it for a few months but it can & does creep.

Originally Posted by Mobyturns

Other matter to consider is the longevity of the glue joint. In my experience in the tropics the Bostick brand is reasonably OK if you leave it for a few months but it can & does creep.

Yep. I think that my one failure was due to a combination of leaving it glued too long, a few weeks, plus the huge change in humidity, from dry to super-wet weather. Luckily it came off at the beginning of turning, so it was easy to get rid of the ding.

Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner

I'm not saying you have to use a chisel.

That's what I do.

You should use whatever works for you.

I mean you could use red wine if it worked for you.

Personally I would consider that to be a waste, and would revert to my trusty bench chisel.

Cheers
Tim

Definitely won't be using red wine.

Hermit, I have also used the hot melt glue for quite a few years, and haven't had any let go. (Having said that, I will be very careful tomorrow). I have on many occasions used hot melt in a bit different manner, in that when attaching the piece to be turned to the wooden face plate, instead of gluing up as a tenon, I have put the two wooden faces together dry, then brought up the tailstock and tightened it, then used the glue gun like a welder and laid a good fillet of hot glue completely around the joint. No problems with air being trapped, and dead set sure to get a good square joint between the piece and the wooden face plate.

Never use hot melt directly onto a steel face plate as it won't hold, but strangely, an aluminium face plate hot glued to wood does hold. You can recycle great aluminium face plates out of old VCR players. I have a couple of them, face plates I mean. To preheat the aluminium face plate, I use an old electric iron set on about medium, held in the vice with the sole plate up, and just drop the aluminium face plate onto it for a few minutes, then glue it to the piece to be turned while still hot. Seems to work for me. Have fun!!!! Doug.


We've been having a few discussions about methods of holding a workpiece on the lathe lately, so I thought I'd ask a question that's been on my mind for some time.

Is it really safe to use hot-melt glue for attaching a glue block to a workpiece?
I've seen a number of 'good' turners on YouTube doing it, and have been doing it myself a bit on small pieces, but am still worried that it's not really safe.

Any feedback is very welcome.[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by dougturner

Hermit, I have also used the hot melt glue for quite a few years, and haven't had any let go. (Having said that, I will be very careful tomorrow). I have on many occasions used hot melt in a bit different manner, in that when attaching the piece to be turned to the wooden face plate, instead of gluing up as a tenon, I have put the two wooden faces together dry, then brought up the tailstock and tightened it, then used the glue gun like a welder and laid a good fillet of hot glue completely around the joint. No problems with air being trapped, and dead set sure to get a good square joint between the piece and the wooden face plate.

Never use hot melt directly onto a steel face plate as it won't hold, but strangely, an aluminium face plate hot glued to wood does hold. You can recycle great aluminium face plates out of old VCR players. I have a couple of them, face plates I mean. To preheat the aluminium face plate, I use an old electric iron set on about medium, held in the vice with the sole plate up, and just drop the aluminium face plate onto it for a few minutes, then glue it to the piece to be turned while still hot. Seems to work for me. Have fun!!!! Doug.


We've been having a few discussions about methods of holding a workpiece on the lathe lately, so I thought I'd ask a question that's been on my mind for some time.

Is it really safe to use hot-melt glue for attaching a glue block to a workpiece?
I've seen a number of 'good' turners on YouTube doing it, and have been doing it myself a bit on small pieces, but am still worried that it's not really safe.

Any feedback is very welcome.

[/QUOTE]

I've seen a few sugestions in the past about bringing the pieces together then just running a bead around the edge, but have been wary of trying it.

Regarding steel faceplates, I've seen a vid where they used one without a problem, but they first lay the faceplate on a stove element and got it nice and hot first. I'll stick to wood-to-wood, I think.

Like the tip about faceplates from VCRs, though.

My tips for this, mostly already said but whatever.

1. make sure you let your gun heat up fully.
2. pre-warm your surfaces if its really cold.
3. If gluing directly on the lathe, hold it on with your tailstock. otherwise clamp it.
4. Let the glue cool fully before you start turning.