Thread: Hot Melt Glue for Glue Blocks - Yes or No

Works okay for me. Only ever used it with balanced pieces though.

Originally Posted by dabbler

Works okay for me. Only ever used it with balanced pieces though.

I should have said, I too only use it for well-balanced pieces. I'll be mounting my largest segmented piece to date in a few days, still only 6" diameter 4" deep, but wanted to ask this and get responses from as many as possible before I continue.

(I had one let go a few weeks ago during that period of constant rain. It was in the moist air for a week before turning. Re-glued when the weather dried up and didn't have another mishap, but I'm still wondering.)

I know we're all entitled to one fatal mistake, but don't want to make mine just yet.

No problem if done properly

Just have to leave an air gap so you get two mating surfaces

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

No problem if done properly

Just have to leave an air gap so you get two mating surfaces

Thanks Jim. Do you mean a recess in the middle of the glue block, or to use only a ring of glue around the outer edge? I haven't been making a recess, just putting a ring of glue around the perimeter of the face. I do always drill a small hole through the centre though.

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I guess you mean a recess.

I use it when turning Corian pendants etc.

Four blobs of glue which allows the air to escape from the centre and when finished I use inject Metho with an old syringe on the hot melt glue to soften it, so it's easy to remove.

Peter.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

I use it when turning Corian pendants etc.

Four blobs of glue which allows the air to escape from the centre and when finished I use inject Metho with an old syringe on the hot melt glue to soften it, so it's easy to remove.

Peter.

The hole in mine would achieve the same, I guess, except it might be a bit small and block. (Left over from my wood screw when turning the tenon.)

I use metho too, a tip from , but I use a cotton bud. That's why I like hot-melt - it's the only good temporary gluing method that I know of. Might have to steal yet another of your ideas, too, a syringe sounds much better.

I'm feeling much more confident about hot-melt now after the replies from dabbler, Jim and yourself. I'll continue to use it.

You do a ring of glue but leave a gap so that the excess air can escape.

Also quick hands as the longer you tarry the glue will go of and not bond like it should

So make sure all is prepared before glueing.

In colder days warm up the 2 parts with a hot air gun or the wifes hair dryer , help to keep the glue a bit liquid before going of too quick in the winter months

Hot air gun also helps in removing the waste block

Also try the metho trick to unglue the glue beforehand on a piece of test wood. Not all glues come apart with the metho treatment. The Bosch stuff works really well.

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

You do a ring of glue but leave a gap so that the excess air can escape.

Also quick hands as the longer you tarry the glue will go of and not bond like it should

So make sure all is prepared before glueing.

In colder days warm up the 2 parts with a hot air gun or the wifes hair dryer , help to keep the glue a bit liquid before going of too quick in the winter months

Hot air gun also helps in removing the waste block

Thanks for that Jim. And I use my hair dryer. Forgot to lose the long hair at the end of the 70's.

Originally Posted by jefferson

Also try the metho trick to unglue the glue beforehand on a piece of test wood. Not all glues come apart with the metho treatment. The Bosch stuff works really well.

A good tip Jefferson. Thanks for that.
I've been using the Stanley glue, which comes off fine with metho.
I also just bought some long sticks of a cheap unknown brand from eBay and it loosens OK with metho too. Just tested it. Yet to see how well it holds timber though.


Actually, this raises another question that's been on my mind - what grade of glue does everyone use - the 'Heavy Duty' stuff intended for woodworking, or just 'General Purpose' glue? (I've been using the GP.)

Use it all the time,just mke sure your glue gun is good and hot and preheat the tennon in the microwave on high for 30 secs.The glue should be bubbling when it goes on the tennon.
Ted

I've used cheap generic sticks for decades now, in all sorts of areas not just turning.

Temp, speed and avoiding air gaps are more important IMO. If the glue seems tacky - start again.

Originally Posted by turnerted

Use it all the time, just make sure your glue gun is good and hot and preheat the tenon in the microwave on high for 30 secs. The glue should be bubbling when it goes on the tennon.
Ted

'Pre-cooking' the tenon sounds like a good tip Ted. I'll have to try it.
And getting the glue bubbling. Actually, I usually put the glue on the bottom of the workpiece after heating it with the HD, rather than the tenon, but I'll try your way on my next.
Also, is there any reason why the glue shouldn't be put on the tenon before it's put into the microwave?

Originally Posted by dabbler

I've used cheap generic sticks for decades now, in all sorts of areas not just turning.

Temp, speed and avoiding air gaps are more important IMO. If the glue seems tacky - start again.

Good one, thanks for the extra info dabbler. I'll continue to use the GP sticks - the 'Heavy Duty' ones are much more expensive and hard to find.I'm learning a lot from this thread. Glad I started it.


I can add a couple of tips for those reading this in the future too:

The first - don't use hot-melt glue on wet (green) wood - it won't hold well.
(I saw a Mike Waldt video a while ago where he tried it and the glue let go almost immediately.)

And when buying a glue gun, it's best to buy the type that take 11mm glue sticks, rather than the 7mm ones. They have a faster flow rate, allowing you to get the glue on much more quickly, before it begins to set.
I bought a 120W, 11mm Stanley, with a ceramic 'quick-heat' element. They're a bit lot more expensive than the cheapies off eBay, but worth every cent.

If I'm doing a large turning, I use the heat gun to cover an area approx 100 mm dia. and also use the tailstock to help support unbalanced work.
Kryn