Thread: Need information on chucks.

Hi Peter
I prefer the tommy bars over the key system so much quicker to adjust I keep the chuch nice and free so it can be ajusted with a flick od the fingers and for tightening I mostly just use 1 bar in the back ring wilst holding the timber then if necessary use the second bar.

Cheers Tony

Pics would help but if they are the type of chuck I'm thinking then what I do is lock the lathe so I will no spin using the indexing pin and then one hand holds the job and the other hand uses one tommy bar. You only need one bar as the locked lathe is equivalent to using two.
Hope this makes sense.

Originally Posted by Sturdee

We have a deluxe GPW chuck set which is fine but it's a pain to change over the jaws.

I am able to buy a couple of plain chucks cheaply to fit the extra jaws but, although self centering, they are operated with two tommy bars instead of a one key like my chuck.

I'm confused how they work. Do you hand tighten them whilst holding the timber and then tighten them with the tommy bars or is there another way of doing it.


Peter.

They're great for all the turners out there with 3 hands.

A). Can't see how a millisecond or 2 is a problem for a hobby turner.
B). A lot easier to find 1 T-bar in the curlies than 2 rods.
C). Can't apply near as much pressure.
D). Not everything 'old' is better. (or we'd all still be using treadle lathes )

They're great for all the turners out there with 3 hands.
A). Can't see how a millisecond or 2 is a problem for a hobby turner.
B). A lot easier to find 1 T-bar in the curlies than 2 rods.
C). Can't apply near as much pressure.
D). Not everything 'old' is better. (or we'd all still be using treadle lathes )

my sentiments entirely

Thanks for the advice. It confirms my thoughts that it would be better to forego the offer.

If only I had three hands.


Peter.

If you can get them cheap then I definitely would go for it. I use them all the time. As Rum Pig described you do not need three hands. He suggested locking the spindle which means you only need to use one tommy bar. Also, you can hand tighten a lot of items sufficiently to free up both hands for the tommy bars. Or put the tommy bars in the right holes and you can squeeze them together with one hand to tighten or loosen. I drilled extra holes in the top ring to facilitate this.

Use the tailstock as a third hand. Mark the center of the far end with a center finder (plastic angle bisector contraption) to make it concentric. Press the workpiece against the shoulders of the jaws. Then tighten.

On some chucks, there may be multiple holes for the tommy bars. Two of them may be close enough for one-handed operation - squeezing together. Your second hand can support the workpiece, without need for the tailstock.

In either case, rotate slowly by hand, and re-clamp if wobble appears.

Cheers,
Joe

Newer chucks are better in so many ways but the older Tommy bar types are good little chucks. They are very good on smaller lathes because you don't have so much weight hanging on the bearings.

Hi Sturdee,
I've placed this on the Forums a few times on these Chucks.

Go to a Local Sunday Market, & buy 2 good Stanley Screwdrivers, may have to take small tommy bar to get the correct size.

Cut both to 5in - 125mm of the steel, square them off on the Grinder, must be sq. at all times.

I Lock my Lathe Head as well & only have to use 1 new "Tommy Bar", to lock up the wood.

I also use Graphite Powder in my 3 Black Nova's.

By the time these other Turners find their "T" bar, I would be Turning my wood, as my
"Tommy Bar" is always in sight.

I don't have to look for it, & you only have give the back ring a flick, & your wood is finger tight, + you don't have to turn & turn & turn that B!@#$%^&*Y T Bar. I've used them, don't like them at all.

My Chucks are always in good nick, as I look after them.

I think I can get My Chuck as tight on the piece of wood, as any other Chuck.

Regards,
issatree.
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But one of the downsides of 'locking' the spindle is wear on the indexing pin. Or in the case of carp lathes, bending.

Not a problem if you never use it for indexing.

An original Oneway tommy bar chuck came with my Hegner lathe, which has no way to lock the spindle.

After turning for a couple years with no chuck, the Oneway is such a leap forward I don't mind the three handed chuck. I use all of the above listed techniques to mount the wood in the chuck.

One day I will attach a stout hinge on the top of the headstock so that I can extend a leaf over the chuck and drop a rod through a hole to either lock the spindle or the chuck, and then fold it back on to the top of the headstock out of the way.

Meanwhile I'm busy turning things.

Hi rrser,
The "Tough" Locking Pin was easy to get at as was the Index Holes.
So I re bored the Index Holes to 5/16th, re did the Pin also. Never had a problem since.
Regards,
issatree.
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Originally Posted by Paul39

my Hegner lathe, which has no way to lock the spindle.

.

That is like mine in so far as I can't lock the spindle either. So a one handed key system is more attractive but the cost is a bit too much for a poor fellow like me.

So either I buy these before they go or save up more pennies. As my daughter and I both use the lathe separate chucks for each of us seem a great idea. Please keep the comments going as it is helping a newbie (to turning) making up his mind.

BTW I like your idea for a spindle lock, has anyone made something like that and if so can they post some pics?

Peter.

Sturdee,

From memory theres been a few posts in the past on spindle locks being made for lathes without.