Thread: Inside bowls.

Well first you ring Jim - then ........................well you know the rest - yep have your credit card number ready




No i have that same problem and usually if the angle on the bowl gouge (3/8 HT superflute) is not sharp enough to allow the bevel to rub i go to a scraper.

Problem 2 - i have tried with a 1/2 inch roundnose scraper and find once you get 1/4 of the cutting edge in contact i get a catch with that also - so back to the bike clips.


On my last visit to Jeffs (Keiwa) i used his Ci 0 (on a peice of scrap) and found that to be brilliant - the round cutter gave me confidence that i never had with the 1/2 inch scraper.


So back to the start ...ring Jim and you know the rest.

Cheers & hope that helps

Use the nose of the chisel down the side. When you get down near the transition point put the handle across the bed and use the side.

I use the side for the whole cut and just slide it across the base.

Requires practise.

Originally Posted by

Use the nose of the chisel down the side. When you get down near the transition point put the handle across the bed and use the side.

I use the side for the whole cut and just slide it across the base.

Requires practise.

Was trying that, but it gets a bit jittery on the transition. Kinda worked rubbing the bevel all the way round (if that makes sense. ) Ended up going the 80# gouge to clean it up.

How far in have you got the tool post TL

Originally Posted by tea lady

Was trying that, but it gets a bit jittery on the transition. Kinda worked rubbing the bevel all the way round (if that makes sense. ) Ended up going the 80# gouge to clean it up.

Requires practise.

Originally Posted by

Requires practise.

So in the meantime TL stick with the bicycle clips

Standing in a tray is better: easier to empty afterwards.

The Ci0 that Calm referred to is one of my latest additions. It's a Ci1 look a like, only with a round carbide insert. It is great for rounding the transition on the inside of bowls, especially when you get some rippling.

A HD scraper would do the same job, but you'd need a few ground to different angles. I really do like the heft of the tool and now have a spare 1/2 inch round nose scraper looking for a good home....

I'm still road-testing the Ci0 and will give a full novice report after some more testing.

BTW, shaped one of my bowl gouges differently so it was better on the "turn". Not a lot of bevel support, but it works. Perhaps the Spindle Master can explain better than I.

Another topic for our sharpening day.

Jeff

I go as far down the side as I can with a bowl gouge with a shallow bevel, which gets me just past the transition from edge to base. Then I change to a larger bowl gouge with a steeper bevel to do the base. I prefer the larger gouge due to its extra strength as you're hanging further over the tool rest. If need be, I finish up with very light cuts with a 38mm round nosed scraper, or a smaller size if this won't fit into the transition space.

Personally the only tool I have had continued success eith inside bowls is an Oland tool.
However, it is very important to keep the overhang as small as possible. Don't try to do the entire inside with one setup of the tool rest IMHO of course

Practice practice practicepracticepracticepracticepractice

Start with a shallow platter form hollow in a bowl blank & just keep making it deeper & deeper until you have a bowl.
As it gets deeper, you will work out (eventually) how to roll the tool to keep it cutting on the sweet spot while still keeping the bevel rubbing.
Once you have the feel for it, (takes practice) you will be able to do the whole cut from rim to centre in one pass without stopping.

Originally Posted by Cliff Rogers

Practice practice practicepracticepracticepracticepractice

Start with a shallow platter form hollow in a bowl blank & just keep making it deeper & deeper until you have a bowl.
As it gets deeper, you will work out (eventually) how to roll the tool to keep it cutting on the sweet spot while still keeping the bevel rubbing.
Once you have the feel for it, (takes practice) you will be able to do the whole cut from rim to centre in one pass without stopping.

Mind you, I have only got the hollowing down pat in one direction at a time - ie on the way in, or on the way out. I still cant get the all the way in then all the way out in one motion that and other more experienced turners have shown me.

Practice practice practice

Very small Gouge cuts with the chisel rolled over was my method.
SO then bought me the Sorby hollowing tool. Much easier with that.

A 1/2" scraper is a bit light for the sort of thing that we are talking about here, you are likely to wind up with a bit of self feeding and some flex in the tool. Richard Raffans instruction is to use the biggest scraper that you can get into the object to do it, this does work and with practice you can take 1/2" wide THIN shavings and clean it up.