Thread: Jacobs chuck / Sawtooth bit adventure: Tool or technique?

Originally Posted by Plectropomus

... to always hold the Jacob's chuck when retracting.

Thanks. Yes, that's been my practice also, and the difficulties occurred anyways.

I'm now okay that what happened to me is not super-weird or anything due to my completely screwing-up, and that a range of equipment and technique tweaks can help prevent same in future.

Now to move on to my next problem or disaster

p.s. all the same it's a great video, thanks.

Originally Posted by Plectropomus

Woodturning - How to Hollow End Grain - some Different Methods - YouTube

And, here is a brief download of Richard Raffan doing a production end grain hollowing push cut where he rolls the spindle gouge right over in the final cuts... looks easy, doesn't it!

Raffan hollowing cut.mpg

For speed and finish, Richard completes the inside bottoms of his end grain boxes and cross grain bowls with a scraper.

Loctite

The other issue you have with forstner style bits is they need to be retracted a lot more often as the swarf binds up just behind them and makes retracting harder even when gripping the chuck with your hand
Also deep drilling can be awkward as you are heating the timber as well when using these styles of bits which can compress around the bit as well.
Slowly slowly always

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

The other issue you have with forstner style bits is they need to be retracted a lot more often as the swarf binds up just behind them and makes retracting harder even when gripping the chuck with your hand
Also deep drilling can be awkward as you are heating the timber as well when using these styles of bits which can compress around the bit as well.
Slowly slowly always

Absolutely. I think I have now experienced all those things and am learning the feel and to hear what's going on deep in that black hole.

I have also taken to wearing a glove on left hand - holding the chuck - despite the antagonism between clothing near spinning things, and using my hand to compress the chuck head into the quill rather than back through the quill. Hard for me to explain but it retracts much more smoothly if I am compressing the chuck head onto its arbor and the quill.

Anyway, I have made no mods to the equipment yet, but have been practising all the things people hae been mentioning and now have a 3.5" diameter 10cm deep hole in the base-to-be, and 3.5" x 5cm in the lid-to-be ... without incident. It's still a long way from those pieces being a dual-lidded box, but I'm thinking there's hope.

Of course, due to my 'learning curve', my daughter's Christmas present will be several pieces of wood rather than the completed box )

Originally Posted by DXW

Of course, due to my 'learning curve', my daughter's Christmas present will be several pieces of wood rather than the completed box )

We all have to start at the start, not knowing our rear end from our elbow. Your daughter will appreciate the turned box when it arrives, as you made it for her. My family still love to get turned items as presents, over 15 years down the track.

Originally Posted by Jim Carroll

The other issue you have with forstner style bits is they need to be retracted a lot more often as the swarf binds up just behind them and makes retracting harder even when gripping the chuck with your hand
Also deep drilling can be awkward as you are heating the timber as well when using these styles of bits which can compress around the bit as well.
Slowly slowly always

These issue are the same for all Forstner-style bits, but there are some that are better than others.

The Colt Maxi-cut definitely cut much cooler and break up the chips more, but are quite expensive to get here, that is if you can get them here. So, not something you would get for occasional use.

I have used them successfully in green end grain hardwood up to 1m deep.

Their asymmetrical off-set gaps in the cutting edge can be replicated in other FBs by 'carefully' taking the angle grinder to them so as not to de-temper.

Colt Maxicut Forstner Bits | Toolmonger

I also think that the single side cutter (nicker) on each wing positioned next to the gullet creates less heat than the saw tooth rim type.