Jet JWS 1220 and headstock thread size

[TongueTied]

I have a Jet JWS-1220 and recently bought a faceplate/disc sander that is supposed to go on the headstock (here is the faceplate I'm referring to). The Jet manual says that the headstock is a 1" x 8tpi thread size. The faceplate I bought is also a 1" x 8tpi. The problem is, that the thread on the faceplate doesn't fit the thread on the headstock. My first thought was that the faceplate was the problem as my Nova chuck with adapter fits just fine. So, I bought a 1" x 8tpi UNC nut and bolt. The bolt fits the faceplate nicely but the nut does not fit the lathe headstock. I also tried a 1" x 12 tpi and that also doesn't fit. Similar metric sizes also don't fit. The thread on the headstock looks like it is in between the 8 tpi and 12 tpi. Is there a 10 tpi standard? Does anyone have the JWL-1220 or can tell me what size the headstock spindle actually is?

[Jim Carroll]

These manuals are only made for the US market where the 1" x 8tpi are the standard thread.

In the AUS version they come in the british standard of 1" x 10tpi BSW

Americans hate british or metric threads

[Gabriel]

I saw this squaring setup recently and thought it looked quite compact and useful. Are your plans to get a 1 x 10tpi (I have an older model jet 1220 and it's 1x10tpi) faceplate and make up the sanding disc? And if so, can you let us know how the jig goes ?? The barrell trimming method I currently use is o.k. but it relies on square pen blanks, and mine quite often aren't....

Cheers
Gab

[TongueTied]

I think that may be my only option which is a pity as I do use the faceplate that came with the lathe, at times.

[Gabriel]

I was about to offer you mine (as I have a different lathe for my turning these days and the jet is used basically just to drill pen blanks) but realised that if you give this jig a glowing review then I'd need it to rig up my own sanding disc.....

[TongueTied]

I'll put together a sanding disc over the next couple of days. I've heard only good things which is why I bought it. So, I'm hopeful. I'll give you my thoughts once I get the disc part sorted.

[Paul39]

TongueTied,

Get a piece of 75mm hard timber the size you want for your sanding disk. Draw a X on it from corner to corner. Place it up against your chuck and stick the point of your tail center where the lines cross. Run the tail center up nice and tight. Make a groove so that you have a spigot that the most common chuck jaws will grip, and make it wide enough for the jaws to fit in. Larger diameter is better. Make a nice clean groove for the chuck to bottom against.

Turn it around and grab the spigot with the chuck. Face off the timber, checking for flatness with a ruler or straight edge, and make it round.

Put a hard drying finish on the face and side and mark on the back where # 1 jaw goes. This is to get it in the same place each time. Let the finish dry several days. The finish is so you can remove the double sided tape without tearing out splinters.

Get some double sided carpet tape and apply to the face of the sanding disk without overlapping, + - 2mm gap is OK. Stick your sandpaper to that. You can use a square piece, lay face down on a scrap board, score around close to the disk with a knife, tear off extra and use that for sanding your turnings.

Carpet tape: Lok-Lift Rug Gripper (2525A-12) - Safety Treads - Ace Hardware

I have several with grits from 60 up for finishing bowl bottoms and sanding off the nubs on eggs and mushrooms that were turned between centers.

Rather than a solid piece of timber you could use a smaller piece to make the spigot and glue and screw that to a piece of plywood or medium density fiberboard. I look in skips at constriction sites and fish out all sorts of off cuts.

[TongueTied]

Thanks Paul. That would certainly save me my faceplate and let me have different grits.
Cheers,

[TongueTied]

Okay, I managed to get out to the shed yesterday and made s face plate. I didn't have a big enough piece that I was willing to sacrifice so I made a foot and attached a piece of ply to serve as the face plate. I made it about 10" diameter and marked both an 8" and a 9" line on it so I can line up discs and baking pads. The reason for both 8" and 9" circles is that the pad and disc I got with the PSI faceplate, is 8" but I can easily get 9"discs at my local abrasives store.

Tried the jig out, as you do, and it is great. Bit of a faff to set up but once on the lathe, it is really quick and easy.


Procrastinating as usual