Needs Pictures: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 36
Thread: Lathe identification and help
-
8th March 2018, 10:10 PM #16
-
8th March 2018 10:10 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
9th March 2018, 05:48 AM #17GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
- Posts
- 2,327
A note on the Henry Taylor Diamic tools:
https://woodworld-of-texas.myshopify...tools-set-of-3
I have several Henry Taylor and one Diamic lathe tools and find them quite good for US timber. Except for dry locust, we do not have the abrasive, hard, thinly disguised concrete that you Aussies deal with.
For a hand wheel,if you are not going to use the sanding disk much on the left of the lathe, take the small faceplate off and put a piece of timber about 50mm larger than the faceplate and turn and finish on the left of the lathe. There is your hand wheel. You could get fancy and cut a recess first, reverse
on the face plate to get it at or below the surface of the timber then turn and finish.
Below is a hand wheel I made for my Hegner using a purchased 33 X 3.5 nut. The Hegner is the same size and thread on both sides, so I filed and ground the nut and epoxyed it into a roughed out piece of timber, finished it on the right side and put it on the left. The nut jams on the register and stays in place. When I want it off, I put a wrench on it and give the wrench a whack with a piece of wood.
5-P1110093.JPG3-P1110086.JPG1-P1110080.JPGSo much timber, so little time.
Paul
-
9th March 2018, 06:00 AM #18GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2008
- Location
- North Carolina, USA
- Posts
- 2,327
Also, does Woodfast have any email to contact to see if I can get more information on my new lathe? I can't seem to find one online.
Jim[/QUOTE]
With old lathes, a lathe is a lathe. If a belt is too shabby or broken, you take it to a motor shop and ask for one of these. If the bearings go bad, take them out and go to an engineers shop and ask for one each of these. The counter person will usually be able to advise you as to what quality is needed for the purpose.
Most everything can be deduced by having a careful look and / or asking here. They are usually made so well that things do not get broken unless the lathe falls off a truck.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
-
9th March 2018, 05:40 PM #19Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
9th March 2018, 05:42 PM #20Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
9th March 2018, 05:44 PM #21Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
9th March 2018, 05:46 PM #22Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
11th March 2018, 12:31 AM #23New Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2013
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 4
Hey there Forrester
Coincidentally I have just bought a similar unit which I think will need a little bit of work, although it appears to be still in good working order. So this thread is incredibly useful...and I only just noticed it. I think manuals are available for download from the Woodfast guys in Adelaide (Woodwork Solutions?) but I’m having a bit of difficulty getting mine online- will ring them again this week. I think mine is a 68 model.
cheers...David
-
12th March 2018, 09:30 PM #24
On these lathes you can only change speed whilst it’s going.
The belts are impossible to get and expensive if you can find them.
Weve been offered a few from schools scrapping them but havent bothered.
If you can get it going they are a good starter lathe.
The chucks and faceplates have the same thread as the other early Woodfast and Hyco lathes.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
-
13th March 2018, 03:11 PM #25New Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Location
- Pensacola, FL, USA
- Posts
- 2
That metal rod, threaded on one end, handle on the other, might be a draw bar. See if it screws into the end of the spindle for your Jacobs chuck. If it does, it’s function is to secure the chuck’s spindle in the headstock when the direction of your cut is away from the headstock.
-
13th March 2018, 06:22 PM #26Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
13th March 2018, 06:32 PM #27Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
13th March 2018, 07:19 PM #28
I’m a big fan of old Woodfast gear, restored a couple of their machines from the 60s over the last couple of years. Have a stack of their brochures and manuals at home but not sure if your machine is included, will take a look when I get home and let you know.
-
15th March 2018, 06:27 PM #29Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2015
- Location
- St Clair, Sydney
- Posts
- 47
-
15th March 2018, 09:44 PM #30
You’re in luck mate, I have a brochure for the same model and era [emoji846]
Apologies for the quality of the shots, the lighting wasn’t great and those were the clearest I was able to get.
Similar Threads
-
Help with Lathe Identification
By Basham75 in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 8Last Post: 13th February 2016, 02:46 PM -
Lathe Identification
By faceman in forum ANTIQUE AND COLLECTABLE TOOLSReplies: 8Last Post: 9th May 2014, 09:13 PM -
Help with old lathe identification
By mañana in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 8Last Post: 28th January 2012, 08:00 PM -
Lathe identification
By Malibu in forum THE HERCUS AREAReplies: 13Last Post: 11th March 2011, 11:15 AM