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  1. #31
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    I'm sure Enzo will be in Sydney

    Contact him to bring down what you need
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

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  3. #32
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    Nov 2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    Dont know where you are in Sydney but there is a woodworking club that has the same one of these hyco lathes in working order.

    Contact details can be found in this post
    I am in the eastern suburbs.


    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Might pay to upgrade the shaft to a 1x10tpi or 30x3.5mm or an adaptor Vermec if he is at the STWWshow he might have some available.
    Now that's something I did not know. I will have more questions in regards to this.

    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    What is your colour choice for the respray ??
    This I have not given much thought on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    I'm sure Enzo will be in Sydney

    Contact him to bring down what you need
    Not sure who Enzo is.

  4. #33
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    Jun 2007
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    North Of The Boarder
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    Enzo is Vermec

    This is the adaptor Christos http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/spindleadaptor.pdf

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Towradgi
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    Carbatec shows 1*8tpi inserts available for both Teknatool and Vicmarc chucks. Enzo would have them too. Depends on how much play money after finishing the restoration, that you have to spend on chucks.

    I second the powertwist belts, especially to reduce the amount of power lose from smaller motors.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  6. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat View Post
    Carbatec shows 1*8tpi inserts available for both Teknatool and Vicmarc chucks. Enzo would have them too. Depends on how much play money after finishing the restoration, that you have to spend on chucks.

    I second the powertwist belts, especially to reduce the amount of power lose from smaller motors.
    Posted when Pat came in to get a band-aid now he's got blood on the keyboard too

    Carba-tech is where the two fellows tried well besides Trend and H&F's

  7. #36
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    Nov 2007
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    Here are the extra question that I said that I would have.

    But before that I think that I will confirm that I will stick with the existing drive shaft of 25mm (1 inch). There are a total of three drive bearings that are in the head stock for the drive shaft. Two next to each other in towards the lathe bed and one on the outside. It does look like I should have four in total as there is a space for this looking inside the head stock.

    Now knowing this extra information would three bearings be enough? What type of horse powered motor should I be looking at for this lathe with a drive shaft of 25mm? Where would someone be able to get such a motor?

    On the other side should I go an swap to a thicker drive shaft and change all the bearings. How can this be swapped out as it does not seem to be locked in by mechnical means?

  8. #37
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    May 1999
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    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    Here are the extra question that I said that I would have.

    But before that I think that I will confirm that I will stick with the existing drive shaft of 25mm (1 inch). That is strong enough unless you want to take my job.
    There are a total of three drive bearings that are in the head stock for the drive shaft. Two next to each other in towards the lathe bed and one on the outside. It does look like I should have four in total as there is a space for this looking inside the head stock. Yes most lathes these days have only 2. One inboard and one outboard on the headstock.
    I think they may have come out with a single at the outboard side.
    When buying new bearings take the old ones with you, they will probably be imperial, not metric.

    Now knowing this extra information would three bearings be enough? Yes.

    What type of horse powered motor should I be looking at for this lathe with a drive shaft of 25mm? Where would someone be able to get such a motor? 1 HP will be more than sufficient. See my reply in the Woodfast thread.

    On the other side should I go an swap to a thicker drive shaft and change all the bearings. How can this be swapped out as it does not seem to be locked in by mechnical means?
    I personally wouldn't bother if the shaft is in good nick.

  9. #38
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    Christos has answered well

    The shaft does not need to be thicker 1" is ideal its the TPI thats the problem or can be with as I said inserts to suit the chucks. Thats why I said about getting hold of an adaptor from Vermec/Enzo. This makes it a lot easier on you with face plates, chucks or anything else you might/will apquire.
    A whole shaft replacement would be ideal or one being made to suit.

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    North Carolina, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Christos think you'll find thats 8tpi not 7 here in lies a problem recently I know of a few turners who have tried to get hold of inserts for the 1x8tpi shafts to fit chucks both Nova and Vicmarc they are hard to come by.
    Interesting, in the US 1 X 8 tpi is common as dirt. I found 1 X 8 nuts at the local farm store for my Delta, ordered 1 1/4 X 8 for the Woodfast and 33 X 3.5 mm for the German Hegner from a fastener place. I use the nuts to make face plates and hand wheels.

    Lovely stout lathe, it should serve you well.

    Look for a surplus 3 phase motor and buy a variable frequency drive. I bought a $15 slightly used 1 HP 3 phase 120 volt motor from a scrap yard and a $140 Teco VFD. This runs on my 120 volt single phase house current.
    Google variable frequency drive for more information.

    See also: FM50 Series Sub-micro AC Drive 1/4 to 3HP

    I am sure you can find a VFD for your local voltage.
    So much timber, so little time.

    Paul

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Nth of Newcastle
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    77
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    811

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    My old MC1100 was inch X 8tpi and then I got the Vicmarc and changed the chucks over, Probably 4 inserts gathering dust if they would help ? cost of postage ? PM me.

    Cheers Phil

  12. #41
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    Nov 2007
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    I spend some time on the restore this weekend. Just cleaning off the rust from the smaller parts. It has been very slow progress as you would expect having so much rust of the stand. So I started to take it apart and found that from cutting the bolts or shear force it came apart dead easy.

    There is some pitting on the bottom shelf and top shelf where the lathe was sitting but not so too much. I would guess about less then half a mill of pitting from the rust. The shelfs are made from what I think is 3 mill thick steel so that does not have to be replaced. Now the fun part begins with the removal of the rust.

    What would be the best way of removal of rust with out loosing too much thickness?

    As to the motor I have come to the conclusion that I will be getting the following, CMG 1HP 240V Electric Motor. Now that I have come up with a specific motor that has a capacity of 1410rpm I now have to come up with a pulley that will work with the existing V-belt pulley and produce something close to what would have been original speeds. Of which I have no idea.

    Peoples opions are welcomed.

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    brisbane
    Age
    52
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    Homemade Penetrating Oil | eHow.com (not used this myself, yet, however i plan to, thought it might be of interest to you or others)

    or

    some sort of commercial penetrant oil or solution (wd-40 / rp-7/ inox/ etc.) the night before even a few days before might help for any bolts nuts or screws as yet undone. couple things to watch, heating a small ammount pre apply can help (not oxy type, but more like leaving it in the sun a while) and some use a silicone base that can affect a later paint application.

    or

    http://www.jamiesulc.com/wp-content/...ehammerman.jpg


    Its a labour of love mate, i'm following with interest and i hope it all goes well.

    Neal.

  14. #43
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    Christos pulleys will be same size but in reverse Pulley And Belt Information Calculator

    http://www.technologystudent.com/gears1/pulley2.htm

    Rust removal sandblast 1st choice, 80g sanding disc 2nd choice, hard wire brush 3rd choice used on drill or grinder hand held.

  15. #44
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    I guess I am trying to get my thinking along this line. As this is the first time that I have ever tried to clean up a lathe it is a very steep learning curve. I know this for certain I would not have attempted this if it was not for this website.

    So I guess I might be taking the pulley with me everywhere I go to get the same size pulley.

    Go into one shop and tell them that I have a pulley in the back pack.

  16. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    I guess I am trying to get my thinking along this line. As this is the first time that I have ever tried to clean up a lathe it is a very steep learning curve. I know this for certain I would not have attempted this if it was not for this website.

    So I guess I might be taking the pulley with me everywhere I go to get the same size pulley.

    Go into one shop and tell them that I have a pulley in the back pack.

    Christos good idea BUT the shaft for the top is different to the shaft size on the motor so best take motor too..........oh and Bigger back pack.

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