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Thread: Lathe Rest or WIP
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7th May 2011, 09:09 PM #31
I'm sure Enzo will be in Sydney
Contact him to bring down what you needregards
Nick
veni, vidi, tornavi
Without wood it's just ...
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7th May 2011 09:09 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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8th May 2011, 09:45 AM #32
I am in the eastern suburbs.
Now that's something I did not know. I will have more questions in regards to this.
This I have not given much thought on.
Not sure who Enzo is.
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8th May 2011, 10:09 AM #33
Enzo is Vermec
This is the adaptor Christos http://vermec.tripod.com/PDFs/spindleadaptor.pdf
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8th May 2011, 11:21 AM #34
Carbatec shows 1*8tpi inserts available for both Teknatool and Vicmarc chucks. Enzo would have them too. Depends on how much play money after finishing the restoration, that you have to spend on chucks.
I second the powertwist belts, especially to reduce the amount of power lose from smaller motors.Pat
Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain
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8th May 2011, 12:10 PM #35
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8th May 2011, 08:42 PM #36
Here are the extra question that I said that I would have.
But before that I think that I will confirm that I will stick with the existing drive shaft of 25mm (1 inch). There are a total of three drive bearings that are in the head stock for the drive shaft. Two next to each other in towards the lathe bed and one on the outside. It does look like I should have four in total as there is a space for this looking inside the head stock.
Now knowing this extra information would three bearings be enough? What type of horse powered motor should I be looking at for this lathe with a drive shaft of 25mm? Where would someone be able to get such a motor?
On the other side should I go an swap to a thicker drive shaft and change all the bearings. How can this be swapped out as it does not seem to be locked in by mechnical means?
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8th May 2011, 10:49 PM #37Retired
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9th May 2011, 10:09 AM #38
Christos has answered well
The shaft does not need to be thicker 1" is ideal its the TPI thats the problem or can be with as I said inserts to suit the chucks. Thats why I said about getting hold of an adaptor from Vermec/Enzo. This makes it a lot easier on you with face plates, chucks or anything else you might/will apquire.
A whole shaft replacement would be ideal or one being made to suit.
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13th May 2011, 11:38 AM #39GOLD MEMBER
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Interesting, in the US 1 X 8 tpi is common as dirt. I found 1 X 8 nuts at the local farm store for my Delta, ordered 1 1/4 X 8 for the Woodfast and 33 X 3.5 mm for the German Hegner from a fastener place. I use the nuts to make face plates and hand wheels.
Lovely stout lathe, it should serve you well.
Look for a surplus 3 phase motor and buy a variable frequency drive. I bought a $15 slightly used 1 HP 3 phase 120 volt motor from a scrap yard and a $140 Teco VFD. This runs on my 120 volt single phase house current.
Google variable frequency drive for more information.
See also: FM50 Series Sub-micro AC Drive 1/4 to 3HP
I am sure you can find a VFD for your local voltage.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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13th May 2011, 06:33 PM #40SENIOR MEMBER
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My old MC1100 was inch X 8tpi and then I got the Vicmarc and changed the chucks over, Probably 4 inserts gathering dust if they would help ? cost of postage ? PM me.
Cheers Phil
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16th May 2011, 09:17 PM #41
I spend some time on the restore this weekend. Just cleaning off the rust from the smaller parts. It has been very slow progress as you would expect having so much rust of the stand. So I started to take it apart and found that from cutting the bolts or shear force it came apart dead easy.
There is some pitting on the bottom shelf and top shelf where the lathe was sitting but not so too much. I would guess about less then half a mill of pitting from the rust. The shelfs are made from what I think is 3 mill thick steel so that does not have to be replaced. Now the fun part begins with the removal of the rust.
What would be the best way of removal of rust with out loosing too much thickness?
As to the motor I have come to the conclusion that I will be getting the following, CMG 1HP 240V Electric Motor. Now that I have come up with a specific motor that has a capacity of 1410rpm I now have to come up with a pulley that will work with the existing V-belt pulley and produce something close to what would have been original speeds. Of which I have no idea.
Peoples opions are welcomed.
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16th May 2011, 11:38 PM #42SENIOR MEMBER
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Homemade Penetrating Oil | eHow.com (not used this myself, yet, however i plan to, thought it might be of interest to you or others)
or
some sort of commercial penetrant oil or solution (wd-40 / rp-7/ inox/ etc.) the night before even a few days before might help for any bolts nuts or screws as yet undone. couple things to watch, heating a small ammount pre apply can help (not oxy type, but more like leaving it in the sun a while) and some use a silicone base that can affect a later paint application.
or
http://www.jamiesulc.com/wp-content/...ehammerman.jpg
Its a labour of love mate, i'm following with interest and i hope it all goes well.
Neal.
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16th May 2011, 11:38 PM #43
Christos pulleys will be same size but in reverse Pulley And Belt Information Calculator
http://www.technologystudent.com/gears1/pulley2.htm
Rust removal sandblast 1st choice, 80g sanding disc 2nd choice, hard wire brush 3rd choice used on drill or grinder hand held.
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17th May 2011, 05:25 PM #44
I guess I am trying to get my thinking along this line. As this is the first time that I have ever tried to clean up a lathe it is a very steep learning curve. I know this for certain I would not have attempted this if it was not for this website.
So I guess I might be taking the pulley with me everywhere I go to get the same size pulley.
Go into one shop and tell them that I have a pulley in the back pack.
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17th May 2011, 05:56 PM #45
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