Thread: Lathe Rest or WIP

Christos thats what I figured thats why I said take the motor with you

Christos,

My method of derusting and painting is to use muriatic acid cut with 3 parts of water, soak until rust comes off, wash in hot water, and immediately apply metal prep containing phosphoric acid. Let thoroughly dry and paint.

Gray wallboard screws have the phosphoric acid treatment.

Light rusting comes off with a soak in straight white vinegar, you might want to try that first. It takes weeks, but it will dissolve thick rust. Heat speeds the process.

I have also used dilute sulfuric acid. I left a piece of rusty auto sheet metal overnight. I pulled out a piece of lacework.

The muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric) cuts the rust without hurting the good metal. It is used in swimming pools to adjust pH and by masons to remove mortar that has gotten on bricks. It will dissolve concrete. Use a plastic container and when you are through add baking soda to neutralize, when the solution quits fizzing add a little more and stir.

The phosphoric acid makes the steel or iron very grabby to paint.

The flat shelves might respond to white vinegar (acetic acid) and a scrub brush followed by a hot water rinse and metal prep.

Once you have everything covered with wood chips, curlys, sanding dust, and danish oil, the paint is not so important.

Originally Posted by Paul39

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The muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric) cuts the rust without hurting the good metal.
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This is not correct. If a shiny plane blade with a rust spots is placed into muriatic acid it will remove the rust but it will make the shiny part of the blade a dull grey. This clearly demonstrates the muriatic acid will dissolved away the iron just as quickly as the rust.

The problem is compounded if the rust has oil or other gunk embedded in it since it is impossible to clean. Then the metal will definitely be eaten away faster than the oily rust.

Phosphoric acid does not remove rust but converts it to iron phosphate but it will still slowly dissolve a thin layer of good metal. Since this method does not remove rust if the original rusty surface is lumpy it leaves a lumpy surface but a small bonus is it leaves and pits full of rust looking less pit like.

All this is why electrolysis is a safer method for rsut

Originally Posted by BobL

Phosphoric acid does not remove rust but converts it to iron phosphate but it will still slowly dissolve a thin layer of good metal. Since this method does not remove rust if the original rusty surface is lumpy it leaves a lumpy surface but a small bonus is it leaves and pits full of rust looking less pit like.

All this is why electrolysis is a safer method for rsut

BobL,

If you will reread my post, you will find that I advocate a metal prep containing phosphoric acid to be used after muriatic or acetic acid to make the paint stick better.

I would use metal prep before painting after wire brushing, sanding, grinding or electrolysis as well.

I have seen many accounts of electrolysis with photos. It appears to work quite well, I have not tried it.

Originally Posted by Paul39

BobL,

If you will reread my post, you will find that I advocate a metal prep containing phosphoric acid to be used after muriatic or acetic acid to make the paint stick better.

OK - I agree with (and I also do) that

I humid weather I find the phosphoric acid takes some time to dry. If the piece is small enough after the black iron phosphate has developed I sometimes put the piece in a BBQ oven on low heat to dry for about half an hour. The colour changes from blue-black to grey flakes that helped with a wire brush will flake off leaving a smoother surface than just air drying. Paint still seems to stick to it quite nicely.

The smaller pieces were relative easy to clean and the L shape brackets again easy to clean as there was not a great deal of rust. The shelfs are what is concerning as the amount of pitting at some areas is quite interesting and as mention about half a mill deep. You guys have given me some thought on what to try will see what I can come up with on the weekend.

Given time everything is possible. So how much time?

Originally Posted by Christos

Given time everything is possible. So how much time?

Depends on what you enjoy most, refurbishing a lathe to pristine condition, or turning.

I would put a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper on a wood block and sand until the high spots are shiney, then puddle your favorite rust dissolver on it for a while, rinse and brush on some metal prep, wipe, dry, & paint.

As I said above, once you get a layer of chips and sanding dust on it, you won't notice.

Almost all of the lathes I have seen used by serious bowl turners look pretty disgusting, as they, and I, apply sanding sealer and oil finish while the bowl is on the lathe.

I do put a newspaper on the bed but some does get on things, especially if you apply oil and rub it in while the lathe is running.

I will admit to being a messy person.

I am the third owner of the Hegner below, The previous owner had it for 6 years and turned one 12 inch long spindle. The lathe was like new and pretty when I bought it.

I do vacuum after each session so I can find my tools, toggle bars, bits of sandpaper etc.

This weekend has seen me spend a little bit of time on the rust removal of one of the shelfs.

What I ended up doing to get rid of the rust was borrow a friends angle grinder and get my self one of those Brumby Strip-it Disc from one of the large hardware stores. Actually I ended up purchasing quite a bit of items to try and only when I got to the Strip-it disc did I get to the embedded rust.

Cleaned off the dust and gave this one quick coat of Galmet's Spraypaint Primer. I checked with the retail outlet and they said that it only comes in one size, 350g. I know that I am going to need a lot more cans.

I also wanted to pickup a 1 hp motor and went out to Hare and Forbes. First time out there and yes I did take the wrong turn. The actual time to purchase the item was about 10 minutes but the actual time that I spend in the store would have been more like 30 to 40 minutes as there was so much to see. I stuck to my plan and picked up the motor. Originally I asked one friend to come along but he was working so he missed out this time.

One question to the sales person what was the size of the drive shaft and he mention 5/8 of an inch. They did not have a pulley but did supply another contact / company. I tried calling but no answer so I guess they do not work on the Saturdays.

So close yet so far Christos.

H&F's is a wonderfull store and you only spent 40mins your lucky to have got out with just what you needed. Hope you got a FREE catalogue

Have ye yet been to McJings me boy Aladins Cave it is 40mins would soon turn into 3 times that.

Have not been to McJings only been able to get a few little bits from the wood show in Sydney.

I think that is is always good to see pictures as they tell a thousand words and sometimes I do not feel like writing a thousand words.

One of the shelves have been cleaned and given a coat of primer.

Attachment 171241


This is the before picture of the second shelf and it has a lot more rust but looks more like surface rust. Mainly because I am not able to push or bend the metal.

Attachment 171242


I also cleaned one of the legs and took a picture next to one that has not been done yet. There is only a small amount on the legs and I think giving them a once over with some sandpaper would be fine but then again quicker with the angle grinder and the strip it disk.

Attachment 171243

I reckon those photos came to about 780 words

Christos,

GREAT WORK! You are getting closer.

This part of the post is specifically for Sawdust Maker.

Here is the picture of the 1hp motor.

Attachment 171460


This part of the post is for the rest of the world that is currently following this work in progress (that includes Sawdust Maker )

I managed to pick up a pulley on Friday from Lewis Pulleys for the shaft of the 1 hp motor that I picked up last week.

Attachment 171461


I can leave it here but I think that I should share a little more. This was the first time that I have ever been to Lewis Pulleys. I normally tell people to be aware of your surrounding and when you are walking you learn and discover a lot easier. The street that Lewis Pulleys is located is one street that I drive along quite frequently and sometimes gotten stuck in traffic on that street.

I have even seen their name (Lewis Pulleys) when in the car and it never occurred to me that Lewis Pulleys might have the item that I needed, until I received directions from another business.

So now I have three new businesses that are etch in my brain as a result of this restore.

And I did pickup one of their calanders.