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Thread: reverse mounting bowls
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6th November 2012, 04:56 PM #1Senior Member
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reverse mounting bowls
hi all looking to make a jig to do the bottom of my bowls as i dont have enought money to buy one atm and i cant reverse mount the peice in the chuck. ive seen them on the inernet so i thought id ask the question whats the easy way to makes one or how can i do this without spending much money. (saving for a bigger lathe)
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6th November 2012, 07:40 PM #2
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6th November 2012, 07:46 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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I think you're talking about a longworth chuck style to reverse mount your bowls? I purchased mine, but I have seen some people with home made ones. I don't know the specs but I'm sure it is possible
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6th November 2012, 10:07 PM #4
Just Google 'making a longworth chuck' - plenty of info out there - much of it overdone but they are easy enough to make if you have a router.
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6th November 2012, 10:24 PM #5
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7th November 2012, 07:10 AM #6
Another option is a Jam-Chuck screwed to the faceplace, or screw a bit of MDF (or similar) to a faceplate and glue a bit of router mat to it (not the non-slip stuff for caravans etc).
You can then hold your turning in place with the tailstock while you cut away the waste mounting wood except for the very middle, which can then be cut away with a saw and finished with a chisel and abrasive paper.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
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7th November 2012, 07:25 AM #7Member
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I just use a friction chuck (jam chuck to some) as Dragonfly said.
If I built one it would be is a donut chuck. Some people make several top plates with various size holes to match different size projects. You only need to remove one bolt to install/remove an item.
http://azwoodturners.org/DoughnutChuck.pdf
Cole jaws or Longsworth work also but most I have seen tape the item to the chuck to make sure it is not orbited if the grippers get loose at all.
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7th November 2012, 09:28 AM #8
Simplest I've seen, and used before I made my Longworth chucks, is a disk of plywood mounted on a faceplate. Turn a groove to mate with the rim. Wrap tape across the near bottom of the bowl to the back of the disk at both ends of the tape. Four strips of stout (e.g. with filament) tape should be sufficient. Staple tape to the disk for insurance if in doubt.
Cut new grooves for new size bowls as needed. Replace the disk when necessary.
Found in "Lathes and Turning Techniques; The Best of Fine Woodworking," ISBN 1-56158-021-X, by Betty Scarpino.
FWIW, Betty is current editor of American Woodturner, Journal of AAW.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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7th November 2012, 01:04 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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I use Joe's method above. I have used tape and found it left sticky stuff on the bowl so usually run the tailstock center up to the bowl with a small wood button on the end to not penetrate into the wood.
I completely finish everything but the little nub, then unscrew the faceplate and bowl and use that to hold the bowl while I trim off the nub and hand sand and finish the last bit.
In a weak moment I bought the big jaws and buttons for my Oneway chuck to finish bowl bottoms, but found that the groove cut in plywood makes the bowl run more accurately, and the time and effort to change jaws on the chuck is a pain.So much timber, so little time.
Paul
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7th November 2012, 06:26 PM #10Senior Member
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thanks all went on google and found some plans for a longsworth chuck that im going to give a go at making in the next week or two should make doing the bottom of bowls alot easier
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7th November 2012, 08:43 PM #11Senior Member
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if you have a headstock shaft that is hollow you can make up a vacum chuck they work well bring the tailstock up till the last bit and take light cut with a sharp gauge
Cheers Ian
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8th November 2012, 09:32 AM #12
the quickest low cost easy to make chuck would be a donut chuck
http://www.cumberlandwoodturners.com...ng%20Bowls.pdf
Simple Donut Chuck | Three Seasons WoodturningInspiration exists, but it has to find you working. — Pablo Picasso
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