Thread: Marking bottom of bowls

hi nick,
nice bowl, i think you should do what ever you want
to do,most people do exactly what you have done
i think it looks ok ,quite neat ,a proper name of the wood
would be better for us laymen,thats my 2 cents worth
i have seen branding irons for sale with your name on if you
want real fancy
cheers smiife

Branding irons can create a really nice effect for you to put your signature/name/logo on it, but if you want to date it or put the name of the timber on it, then you'll still be back to square one to make a decision on what to use.

Personally I just use a slim tip sharpie also, but looking for something nicer.

For darker timbers, I have seen some woodturners who have used a thin engraving tool - this seems to work well on darker timbers where a black marker wouldn't be very visible.

I'm looking forward to hearing other people's responses on this issue.

For the last few years I've only been putting my initials on the bottom so a brand would have been ideal but was unaffordable until recently. I just got mine made using my own artwork and delivered for $139 - can't complain about that and it does a fantastic job. I've only used it on 2 finished items so far so I've still got to get used to getting the temp' right for different timbers but that will come with practice. Had no problems dealing with the vendor - Linky to their website

And would be easy enough to heat up with a $20 creme brulee butane torch from a homewares store I imagine

Branding irons are quite expensive, and cannot be changed from piece to piece.

I have been using a Dremel brand engraving device. It must be Dremel. With the setting at mid range, I can neatly sign date and indicate wood species on the bottom if my work. I darken or lighten the engraving with some colored wax ( shoe polish) or with a sharpie. If you finish the bottom first, then engrave, the sharpie will fill the engraved parts and not the surface wood. A paper towel with a bit of alcohol will remove the surface color, leaving a neatly highlighted signature.

Originally Posted by jgilfor

If you finish the bottom first, then engrave, the sharpie will fill the engraved parts and not the surface wood. A paper towel with a bit of alcohol will remove the surface color, leaving a neatly highlighted signature.

Would this method work for finishes which are burnished into the timber (eg shellawax or oils) or is it only effective for hard shiny surfaces like a CA or lacquer coating on top of the timber?

I use something like this and always write after the piece is finished (actually I try to get my wife to write it... she's much neater )

The good thing about having two tips is small peices can get the fine tip and bigger bits can do the thicker end. I'm pretty impressed you got a CA finish on a bowl though


Corbs

I've just used something like a sharpie, name and timber (usually a common name). An accompanying card gives the finish and my contact details.

Being an arborist, I feel it's another part of my signature to use the botanical name.


love
nick

Tree,

I use a fine magic marker after I finish, let dry overnight and gently wipe on another coat of finish on the bottom. I mostly use a rubbed on Tung oil, sometimes rubbed on polyurethane varnish.

I sign, put type of wood if known, and have a concealed date.

I use a code for the date. last two digits of the year and number of pieces made that year. This year would be 1301, 1302, 1303, etc. This also gives me a serial number for a list when I consign the stuff to the crafts shop.

There is discussion about should one date or not. I saw an expensive piece ($2500) in a shop that was signed & dated. It was made 5 years earlier. My thought was that this person does not sell much stuff. Not that I am in a position to buy a piece like that.

Photo is of 13th bowl of 2012

Originally Posted by TTIT

For the last few years I've only been putting my initials on the bottom so a brand would have been ideal but was unaffordable until recently. I just got mine made using my own artwork and delivered for $139 - can't complain about that and it does a fantastic job. I've only used it on 2 finished items so far so I've still got to get used to getting the temp' right for different timbers but that will come with practice. Had no problems dealing with the vendor - Linky to their website

hi ttit.
not much info on the linky,
would you have taken a photo for us to have a look at your handy work ?
cheers smiife

I use a Nikko fine point permanent pen, for name and species. Personally I don't think you need to worry too much about the quality of your signature, so long as it is identifiable as yours, is more important, that then forms part of the piece. Most of the old master artists were not too concerned about their signatures, as they were all unique and recognised.
Jim

Originally Posted by smiife

hi ttit.
not much info on the linky,
would you have taken a photo for us to have a look at your handy work ?
cheers smiife

Oddly enough . . . not yet I'm going to be taking some any day now of an unusual bowl I just finished that has the honor of being the first bowl to get 'stamped' - just got to get around to it - will post again when done

Originally Posted by TreeClimberNick

What are you guys using to mark/sign the bottom of your bowls?

I know it seems the common thing to do to mark/sign your turnings but why do you do it.

I understand it if a professional turner does it, but a hobby turner ?


Peter.