Thread: Mcjing buffing system

Son and I went 1/2's all good so far although I have not yet used it on wood, he polished up his Fire extinguisher collection and other brass ware. You can use it with one or all 3 buffs.

Just from a quick look it seems the same as the wheels you get for the bench grinder, but smaller. What's the advantage here?

There is two sizes of the buff system small and large.

Thanks guys, in the end I ran out of money and didn't buy the buffing set-up, it did look reasonably priced and I was severely tempted.

I've got the Beall 3 in 1 from the states and find it excellent. The beauty of it is that I can polish anything, without having to stop the machine and change mops, mind you I don't polish metal on it as it will leave metal dust on your timber. Beall recommend that a coating of danish oil be used first to help fill and seal the voids/pores.
Seeing as money is a bit tight why not buy a mop when you have some spare and make up the bar from allthread when you have the 3 mops. If you want a drawing of it, PM me and I'll make a drawing for you.
Mine has the morse tapered end but there is nothing to stop you from mounting it in a 4 jaw chuck just remember to get the tailstock end drilled on centre.
Kryn

I've never used one before, but if you're talking of making one then the MT from a pen mandrel might be useful - it has a threaded hole in the face you could screw into, although you would have to make/buy an adaptor to go from the 7mm up to whatever the hole in the wheels is

I don't do much buffing as it seems to me with wood with a bit of figure a satin or low gloss finish shows it to best effect.

That said, sometimes there's a use for the technique and I have one of Neil's swansdown mops, a 4" I think, mounted on a length of all-thread in a Jacobs chuck.

An alternative depending on the piece is a 5" rubber disc with a lambswool cover driven by an electric drill.

These experiences date from the phase when I was using fairly hard waxes on turnings. Since then the wax of choice has been the ubeaut Trad Wax which needs only clean flannelette to apply and buff on the lathe; or sometimes, with open pored timbers, ubeat Shithot Waxstik which is great stuff and the only finish you need on Elm or euro Oak species.