Thread: McJing Site

No relationship at all! The thingie on the left is an old type (still good) collet chuck which expands into a suitably sized hole in a bowl blank, and then into the bowl base for hollowing out the bowl, while the other thingie is simply a ring cutter. It has opposing adjustable cutters which determine the thickness of the ring to be cut, and the angle at which they are cut. You can "build" a bowl out if a flat piece of timber, say 250mm square piece of 20mm timber can have several diminishing diameter rings cut with angled sides, the rings glued on top of one another, and a bowl say, 220mm diameter and maybe 4 or 6 rings high. Lots of fun, and uses flat offcuts, instead of wasting the shavings that need to be removed to turn a bowl from a solid 250mm x 100mm blank. I hope that makes sense! Doug

Doug thanks for that. Have you ever seen any videos or instructions on its use
Steve
[QUOTE=dougturner;1855829]No relationship at all! The thingie on the left is an old type (still good) collet chuck which expands into a suitably sized hole in a bowl blank, and then into the bowl base for hollowing out the bowl,

Steve
Have a look at Bruce Leadbeater's website . He makes them and has detailed instructions on using it .
Ted

Steve, Bruce still does have these for sale, as recent as December last year. I was lucky enough to have Bruce explain the Ring cutter and it's use for about 10 minutes at a Cubby house meeting. Due to a shortage of play money, I didn't purchase Bruce's version, but it is on the list.

Bruce Leadbeatter Ring Cutter

Sorry I was actually interested in any advice/instructions on the chuck rather than the ring cutter
Steve

[QUOTE=WaggaSteve;1855948]Doug thanks for that. Have you ever seen any videos or instructions on its use
Steve

Originally Posted by dougturner

No relationship at all! The thingie on the left is an old type (still good) collet chuck which expands into a suitably sized hole in a bowl blank, and then into the bowl base for hollowing out the bowl,

Steve, forgot to mention that the chuck you have also comes originally with a custom made cutter to cut the exact size hole to take the collet chuck. They are still available, although a saw tooth or Forstner bit of the correct size will do the job as well. If you buy the chuck new, the cutter will be included, but if you "inherit" the chuck, the cutter may well not be with it. I haven't seen any video of the chuck in use, but I have seen Bruce Leady demonstrate its use quite a few times over the years. If you are spending money, my suggestion would be for a Vicmark chuck of suitable size for what you want to turn, as the scroll chuck is so much more versatile in my opinion. Doug

The chuck you are referring to, from memory, was designed by Bruce Leadbetter and marketed by Woodfast, as the Super Chuck. It was available in a 3" or 2" version. Cutters were supplied with the chuck to ensure the hole was the correct size, which was quite critical. They were also supplied with a screw chuck that required a 1/4" hole and a tube spanner. The 1/2" stud that fixed the aluminum plate on the face plate, had an allen key hole in one end. When assembling the chuck make sure that allen key hole is visible. The major problem was that the aluminum plate would overtightened and break the base off the bowl. This was always due to blunt tools and/or poor turning technique. These dimensions, presumably, have been superseded by the metric equivalent.

They were a good thing at the time, but I would agree that a scroll chuck is probably a better investment.

Jim

Scroll chucks can be used by turning a recess and expanding the jaws into it or by making a spigot and grabbing with the jaws.

After having a couple of bowls come apart on the lathe in the expanding mode, despite being extra careful and aware, I now only make spigots and grab with the chuck.

I make recesses and spigots by putting the blank against the face plate with a small diameter live center to hold it. I cut the recess or spigot with a purpose made scraper. I leave the little nub on the bottom of the bowl to provide a center mark for finishing the bottom.

To save buying a hole saw or drill you could do the same. Set inside calipers to the size you need for the expanding chuck and stop lathe and check frequently when you get close.

Be sure you have a sound piece of timber without any hairline cracks and be very careful. Use your face shield and stay out of the area where the pieces of bowl will fly if it comes apart.

See below for recess - spigot cutter shapes. The front and sides are ground at about 70 - 80 degrees. A skew can be used in scraping mode.

Thanks guys-
I do have a vicmarc 90 but in cleaning out drawers that haven't been opened for 7 years, came across this chuck that rang no bells with me. I did go to a Leady presentation probably 8-9 years ago so may have make a rash purchase then as it was probably closer in price to my budget at that point than the vicmarc

But while I am at it, is the Leaddy chuck used with the centre round screw thing (has two holes for what looks like tightening (bit like that used on grinders to lock the wheels in)) and the associated screw in place or is that for another method of holding

Stevechuck1.jpgchuck2.jpg

Originally Posted by turnerted

Steve
Have a look at Bruce Leadbeater's website . He makes them and has detailed instructions on using it .
Ted

got a link to his site ?????

Been to Leaddy's site and done much searching generally but no luck on instructions
Steve

Originally Posted by mkypenturner

got a link to his site ?????

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~kjeeves/leady/leady1.html

Click on the link that Pat gave and it will take you straight there.
Ted

Unless I am missing something (has happened before) it takes me to his site but no link to chuck