Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 15 of 34
Thread: Metal to Wood !
-
30th March 2012, 10:08 AM #1
Metal to Wood !
Recently Neil (dai sensei) and I put our heads together to create a ball turning attachment for our wood turning , Mine will most likely be only used for the balls on top of my pepper grinders but can turn up to 150 mm dia balls. Neil made his to to suit both his woodfast and larger jet so needed a few extras added , I did a quick test on some scrap to make a 60mm ball ,to test the theory ,might need a bit more tweeking ,but nothing major ,this was also a good excuse for Neil to give his new metal lathe a workout hehe, hw will add pictures of his after its finished painting cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
-
30th March 2012 10:08 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
30th March 2012, 11:30 AM #2
I suppose you had a ball making it, once you got around to it
Sorry, now seriously
If the stand had a groove instead of the holes (where the two allen bolts are, this would give an infinite choice of ball sizes only limited to the length of the groove, and mounting plate
Willy
Jarrahland
-
30th March 2012, 06:17 PM #3
Finished mine today, except for the paint job, tomorrow's exercise.
The limit of ball size is normally the height between the top of the bearing housing and the centre of the lathe, the mounting/rotating plate has more capacity (although John chopped his off short). John's like mine has holes at 20mm c/c, but the tool has >30mm movement so we still get a continuous ball size availability, my plate is longer to ensure limit is the height availability. The advantage of 2 bolts, in lieu of a single bolt in a slide slot, is that the tool is always presented at 90 degrees to the ball.Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
-
30th March 2012, 06:55 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge SA
- Posts
- 3,339
Gentlemen VERY nicely made, when does production start LOL. Seriously though an excellent execution of a difficult problem.
Kryn
-
30th March 2012, 06:55 PM #5
Willy we had a lathe and drill available , no milling machine ,so in place of a slot we have a series of holes at 20mm c/distance and abour 30mm tool travel so the ball diameter capabilites is in my case from "0" size ball to about "150" mm dia, and anything in between Neils is designed for his woodfast like mine and his larger Jet,so he can have even larger balls hehe ! cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
-
30th March 2012, 07:52 PM #6SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2008
- Location
- act
- Posts
- 880
looks like it does the job john should be spot on for doin s&p mill balls, well done!
-
31st March 2012, 02:41 AM #7
I've no idea if this guy will post to Aus, but he makes a 100mm & a 150mm ball turning tool, I've seen them in operation and they work extreamly well.
150mm ball turning tool
He also makes a thread forming tool as well - not seen it working though so no comment to make on it.
He makes them himself - not a company and the prices are almost give-away.Dragonfly
No-one suspects the dragonfly!
-
31st March 2012, 04:36 AM #8Skwair2rownd
- Join Date
- Nov 2007
- Location
- Dundowran Beach
- Age
- 76
- Posts
- 19,922
That cutter looks like it gives a pretty good finish fellas.
A job well done!!
-
31st March 2012, 08:07 AM #9
Looks pretty handy, did you get your inspiration from Vermecs' Sphere Cutting Jig?
Vermec's Tools
Looks fairly similar.
-
31st March 2012, 09:44 AM #10
Fred ! yes that Vermec was the inspiration , our model is less sophisticated ,no cam locks hehe. Cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
-
31st March 2012, 02:29 PM #11
The Vermec version is a well made unit, and unless you have time on your hands with little worth, is actually a cheap way to go let me tell you. There are many hours work in these if you are making them yourself. The biggest problem I had with the Vermec is the amount of room the actual bearing housing takes away from the available radius. The cam lock however is a nice feature.
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
-
1st April 2012, 07:00 PM #12SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2001
- Location
- South Australia
- Posts
- 650
Square to the work is not always the best way to go.
If the tool is canted to the left and a small round cutter used, the ball can be cut much further around towards the headstock.
This means a much smaller diameter stub and less work to finish the ball.
In a 60mm ball a stub of about 10mm is achievable.
Cheers
TimSome days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.
-
1st April 2012, 07:02 PM #13
Good point, I hadn't thought of that. Mine does have a small round cutter
Neil____________________________________________Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new
-
1st April 2012, 08:07 PM #14
Hi Tim I am probably missing something here, the mechanics of turning a ball dictates that the pivot point is at the centre of the ball and the cutting tool is square to that pivot ,so when pivoted backwards and forwards it arcs across the centre point of the ball. to form the size required . Any tool advancement has to remain in this geometry. If the tool is placed at an angle ,then a different means of advancing the tool needs to be accommodated ,eg the tool remains fixed relative to the centre of the ball, and the tool holder has to advance as a unit , As any adjustment of the tool inwards to reduce diameter would shift the tool away from the centre line ? Keen to see any sketch or pictures of what you are saying as I just don't quite get it . Cheers ~ John
G'day all !Enjoy your stay !!!
-
1st April 2012, 08:13 PM #15Retired
- Join Date
- May 1999
- Location
- Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
- Age
- 73
- Posts
- 11,918
John. The cutter still works on the centre line but because you are only cutting half the ball you can have the cutter advanced a little on the headstock side and go past the centre on the free end. The "swinging" arm still moves in the same arc.
More confused now?
Similar Threads
-
wood to metal?
By fozzy767 in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 2Last Post: 11th November 2011, 01:04 PM -
metal and wood
By dan mosheim in forum METALWORK FORUMReplies: 9Last Post: 5th May 2011, 10:38 PM -
Metal Inlay Into Wood - Resin/Epoxy with metal powder?
By r5e in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 14Last Post: 15th March 2010, 11:17 AM -
metal and wood
By fletty in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 14Last Post: 19th June 2009, 10:30 AM -
Bits of wood and metal
By dan_tom in forum WOODWORK PICSReplies: 3Last Post: 1st March 2005, 08:32 AM