Thread: Metalwork question: making your own tools

I go with everyone else, these thin wheels are great for cutting hard steel. I couldn't find one at our Bumblies, asked the attendant, and he showed me where they where. A bit hidden, but close to the other grinding wheels.

K, thanks guys, will look harder or ask.

G'day ern,
The 1mm. cutoff wheels that you are looking for are manufactured by PFERD.
These people make many types of abrasive / grinding products, eg. industrial cut off wheels, rotary burrs etc. It is all top quality stuff & can be purchased from good industrial suppliers ( Blackwoods ) or abrasive supply companies.
If all else fails, do a Google - remember, Google is your fiend!
Or pm me & I'll get a couple & post them to you.
Regards,
Barry.

K, thanks guys, will look harder or ask

Ern such places as Total Tools and the like will definitely have them.

hughie

Thanks all. There's a Totaltools near Bunnings, and an engineering supplies place, so will give them a try.

I did try the 2.5mm wheel and that was slow getting through the 3/8 thickness; then tried grinding but that would wipe out a 60 grit wheel I reckon. Will see about cutting small segments out with the 1mm wheel.

Ern,

I would use the 1 mm wheels, the larger Bunnies usually have them. If you still have problems, you can drop your steel off at my place and I will cut it for you if you like.

Thanks Tiger ... that's very kind of you.

Yeah, I did find them at Bunnies and have worn out three. Wicked wheels. Work better when they or the steel is cold I've found. The profile is finished; just need to mount it in a large handle and refine the cutting edge. I must say I like the smaller version a lot so I have hopes for this lump of a tool.

Did an Oland tool out of 3/8" rod and it's not nearly as successful on softer wood as the 5/16" version. That may be a shape issue; the latter was made by one of the local clubs - can't remember which - and sold at one of Bernie Kyabu's turning days.

Meantime the marathon of replacing the Stubby bearings is over (I hope!). Needed a pilot bearing puller so I took it to my mechanic who managed to trash the seal behind it. Omega sent one out promptly, then the mech managed to break the headstock alloy lid lug when pressing the new bearing in. Then his welder's machine died. Then the whole assembly started squeaking loudly when run for a few minutes so it all had to come apart again to be greased up. Then the new belt was too tight to be able to swap cogs.

Sigh.

not the Stubby

isn't it heart renching when a beloved machine is in pain.

great thread btw.. only just bothered to read the whole thing through. me thinks I'll be heading down the whole home made tool track all too soon. To buy all the tools in my wish list would take far more than I have

I look foreward to further developements

What trying to make more of my own tools has forced me to do is consider more clearly exactly what does what and under what conditions - which has to help with turning as well.

On the other hand Slow6 it can readily become another plug-hole for the folding stuff ... drill press, vice, HSS blanks etc. Next: set of taps, drop saw for metal, better vice ;-}

Originally Posted by rsser

What trying to make more of my own tools has forced me to do is consider more clearly exactly what does what and under what conditions - which has to help with turning as well.

I think so, too. It's one thing to be told "this tool is used this way" and a different thing to understand why it is so. I've found it also drives home just why tools are dangerous when used incorrectly.

Best of all, when trying new forms it makes it easier to choose the right tool for the job, instead of the more usual "trial'n'error with a lot of cussing inbetween."

On the other hand Slow6 it can readily become another plug-hole for the folding stuff ... drill press, vice, HSS blanks etc. Next: set of taps, drop saw for metal, better vice ;-}

I dunno whether to disagree with this or not. IMHO, a drill-press & vice are de-rigeur for a shed anyway and once you start making your own tools the savings iin buying turning tools more than offsets the initial tooling up. Also, the "bigger'n'better" syndrome applies to anything in the shed.

But you're right that first step can be expensive before you start making usable tools...

I was thinking about you the other day rsser, just about the time I had to re-harpen the bit on the end of my boring bar. At sometime you were thinking about how to lock the bit in the boring bar, set screw or ca glue... My boring bars are 2 feet long so it's more of a pain if the bit is glued in when it comes to sharpening, especialy if the stewart arm or deep hollowing system is attached to the other end. All mine have a set screw so they can be removed easily and sharpened. Bit more of a pain when it comes to making them but worth it when you have to sharpen them. Just thought I'd add another 2 cents worth to the thread.

True 'nuff Toolin. It's more elegant.

Then of course with short bits you need a carrier for sharpening. Some more engineering needed ;-}

Yeah Skew, it's good to have the basics. Think tho that I'm pushing the boundaries trying to shape a 1 1/2" x 3/8" HSS blank.

Seems to me there's a point beyond which the longer it takes to shape something the more errors you're likely to get, and also below which ditto cos you're going too fast. The 'point of flow' or something.

Originally Posted by Slow6

not the Stubby

isn't it heart renching when a beloved machine is in pain.

Yep!

So how is your lathe reno coming along?

FWIW attached are some pics.

Top is the 3/8" Oland-style tool.

Below is the roughed out hook style scraper. You can see I'm in the process of relieving the inside edge of the plate to give more scope for hollowing the close quadrant of a semi-enclosed form.