Thread: H&F Mini wood Lathe . Use for grinding tools?

I would think about taking the cam lock out of the tail stock and putting it in from the back. That handle sticking up like that could be a right PIA. It could get in the way of access to the switch.

Jim

Originally Posted by auscab

The H&F lathe arrived pretty fast, ordered Wednesday arrived Friday, for a cost of $36 delivery with Fast track couriers .
That was great but they didn't it to my door and instead leave it out at the front gate . No phone call to let me know . Anyone could have taken it had I not for some reason looked out the window and seen him . Wife would have seen it 4 hours later if it was still there . I would have had trouble no matter what happe

Ive got to order some CBN wheels next .
Thinking of going with Vicmarc 180 and 360 grit . Maybe get an 80 later as well .

Two things,
I continually had the same problem with AusPost, Startrack is owned by them, so I changed to click and collect, way safer for me.
I have been following the story of CBN wheels for a while on a US forum and general consensus is not to go coarser than 600 grit. Unless you are continually reshaping tools the coarser grits remove too much metal and woodturning tools are not cheap any more. They have said 600 is slightly slower, but is more controllable.
Others will have a different opinion, but I hate wasting money.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Hi Old Croc

I feel I'm in a position to comment. I purchased a slow-speed grinder with a 180 grit CBN wheel.

Look frankly that's right. The rate of metal removal is astonishing for me. I don't know whether I have yet "run in" the wheel (it is commonly said it settles in a little and crazy at first). I simply cannot imagine even if it does ever settle down ever finding that grinding time is an issue. At present even when re-profiling some "beater" chisels to fix them up, I'm talking no more than one second touching the wheel at a time. I would really prefer a higher grit wheel as you really have to be quick on and off.

But on the other hand, I use it as a wheel solely for re-profiling or restoring damage. I use a Tormek SG wheel for re-sharpening turning tools, using the recommended method of putting a sharpie (texta) mark over the bevel and spinning the stone wheel by hand to find where it hits the exact center, so that you're removing the absolute minimum metal. Even on a big roughing rouge this doesn't take long.

I know the fashion seems to be to get your Tormek and use any wheel other than the stone wheel but really, the vanilla use which they recommend of just using it in this way for your re-sharpening is ideal. It comes with all the benefits (no noise, no dust, safe and fairly foolproof). I did not realise that is the recommendation for re-sharpening and they do not recommend setting it all with the setting guides etc until I watched the videos. Which was a relief because despite their precision it can be a chore.

For this reason although I would prefer a higher grit CBN wheel now, I don't see a CBN wheel as a sharpening wheel anyway. If you want to preserve the life of turning tools it is a boring suggestion but I think the vanilla Tormek setup is ideal.

I've noticed at my local woodturner's group the preference seems to be to use a higher grit diamond wheel for all resharpening. There are CBN wheels there but never seen them used for re-sharpening, I assume they're only used for re-profiling or dealing with damage.

Originally Posted by Old Croc

I have been following the story of CBN wheels for a while on a US forum and general consensus is not to go coarser than 600 grit. Unless you are continually reshaping tools the coarser grits remove too much metal and woodturning tools are not cheap any more. They have said 600 is slightly slower, but is more controllable.
Others will have a different opinion, but I hate wasting money.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Crocy, I haven't gone as fine as a #600 CBN, but did add a #360 to my #180 a little while ago now. I reported on the difference I found between the two in the following thread.


#180 or #360 CBN grinding wheel


Now that the #360 has worn in, I'm not finding it too aggressive for my purposes. At this stage I'm not convinced I need a #600, even if I thought I could justify the additional cost.

Originally Posted by powderpost

I would think about taking the cam lock out of the tail stock and putting it in from the back. That handle sticking up like that could be a right PIA. It could get in the way of access to the switch.

Jim

It is a bit in the way when down that end Jim . Ill have to have a look in there . See if it's easy to change .

Originally Posted by Old Croc

Two things,
I continually had the same problem with AusPost, Startrack is owned by them, so I changed to click and collect, way safer for me.
I have been following the story of CBN wheels for a while on a US forum and general consensus is not to go coarser than 600 grit.

I did a bit of complaining to them, Startrack, and I told H&F about it as well . Everyone was all smoochy and nice about it from the office end of the business's . Me reads "Im Keeping the customer happy boss " Startrack said they would let the drivers know about it . Wait and see on that one .

Ive got two CBN wheels coming next , by courier as well . I gave specific instructions at Timberbits check out to at least leave package inside my property if dropping at house is not possible . Going to have to make a sign that tells them to do that and leave at gate.

I ordered 180 and 360 grit CBN Vicmarc wheels . That big flat side looks handy . I haven't seen finer than 360 grit in AU.
Is that something that needs to be ordered from the US ?

Originally Posted by auscab

I haven't seen finer than 360 grit in AU.
Is that something that needs to be ordered from the US ?

Knife Grinders has them here in Oz up to #1000, but their arbors are 12.04mm +/- 0.01 to fit the low rpm Torments.

Originally Posted by NeilS

Knife Grinders has them here in Oz up to #1000, but their arbors are 12.04mm +/- 0.01 to fit the low rpm Torments.

I did ask a question in the "Sharpening" section about the wheels from Knife Grinders, but no one has replied. I am nearly at the point of having to replace the SG wheel on my Tormek and I was considering the one from Knife Grinders.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Originally Posted by auscab

I could do that . Or I could put the CBN wheels on one of my standard 2850 speed grinders . Or I could continue the resto job that stalled on a 3 phase 2850 grinder and set it up with VFD for speed control .

Looking at the lathe idea though , as long as its powerful enough , it solves one issue I have with grinders .
I tend to set up a grinder and it stays that way . All the playing around with bushes and fitting the wheels of what ever type . I don't like changing them around unless I really have to after that. So Ive got about 5 twin wheel grinders set up already . And I need more . I want a grinding station for the metal lathe.
I want a grinding station for the wood turning lathes . And its about time I tried the CBN everyone is talking about which is better used with speed control . The CBN has got to be good for HSS Metal lathe shaping too yeah !

A set up with speed control and easy interchangeable wheels could be the way and put an end to adding to many more grinders . And it offers some interesting things Id like to try out .

CBN wheels on the wall ready to use .

I use thin wheels for sharpening spindle moulder knives but don't have speed control and that would be a good thing .

One thing Ive always thought would be great is sharpening chisels , specially carving chisels on a leather wheel which has to run backwards . The vfd on this lathe has reverse.

Another good thing is the way a tool rest clamps to the bed of a lathe means making a grinding rest that's easily adjustable for any wheel size is easy .

The worst part about it is having to spend $600 on another toy in one hit .

That bridge has been crossed though and the lathe is on the way by courier .

Sometimes I feel though, you just have to do it and see, to have the understanding that comes from doing it, rather than to much thinking about it until your going around in the same circles. Ive been thinking about this for too long .
H&F had a sale which helped things along with this as well .

”I have about 5 twin wheel grinders already “
I want………
I want……….

are you sure we might not be twin brothers auscab?

I got to try out sharpening wood turning chisels on the H&F Mini Lathe with the CBN wheels today . I had some wood turning to do . Very nice !
A lot better than what I was grinding my turning chisels with before.

Ive also been enjoying doing bench chisels, plane blades as well as HSS metal lathe bits for the last week . From 450 rpm to 1450 rpm and some drill bits , small ones need using reverse as these wheels grab at some things not supported on a rest .
Apart from finding out about the the grabs Its going great .

I ended up making draw bars for the MT2 blank to fit my Hercus metal lathe and the H&F Mini .
Ive only machined one blank and one Vicmarc Bush and have been changing the wheels by unscrewing the 10mm screw and washer that holds the wheel on rather than having a MT2 shaft for each wheel and taking it off the draw bar .

I chopped up a Carbatec tool rest and fitted it to the end of a 25mm pipe that fits the Mini lathe tool rest holder . The ease of shifting and changing tool rest position for what ever I need is very good .

I ended up getting 80 , 180 and 360 grit wheels.

Thanks for all the above advice and ideas on using the Mini lathe like this . Its worked out well .

Ive got further plans for it so if I post them I'll do it in the Sharpening section .

Rob

Originally Posted by auscab

Apart from finding out about the grabs Its going great .

They get less grabby with use.

Originally Posted by auscab

I ended up making draw bars for the MT2 blank to fit my Hercus metal lathe and the H&F Mini .
Ive only machined one blank and one Vicmarc Bush and have been changing the wheels by unscrewing the 10mm screw and washer that holds the wheel on rather than having a MT2 shaft for each wheel and taking it off the draw bar .

That would have been well beyond my (non existing) machining skills, Rob. I would have ended up with runout or wobble or both!