Thread: moisture content

Personally, I find 6% to 9% best but that is because it is not practical to get it to and keep it at a lower level , especially with our widely changing atmospheric conditions. Even at those levels you will find some configurations will show evidence of moving, especially if you try to mix hard and soft woods in the same project.

Good luck

If it ain't drippin', time to start rippin!

Hi coffenup,

In my opinion, ideal moisture content in ready to turn timbers, has lots of possible variations/combinations depending particularly on 2 main factors. One is the timber species in question and second is the nature of what the "meter" reads as moisture! There are these things to consider, as not always water residue will be read as moisture, the timber resins can produce high readings when green, and these reasons will take a lot longer to dry then only water so, is the timber dry but got wet, is the timber green and wet or just green?
Moisture instruments (the most common and economical ones) read the amount of moisture content, in the area probed (very localised), this can produce also wrong readings not giving the correct information on the whole piece (log/blank, etc.) Is important to make at least 3 readings on to the same piece in various places, just to make sure!

I also look for readings of between 5-6% up to 10-13%, for dry, ready to turn timbers, with some very positive results on timbers showing 15-17% of moisture content, if the timber is of low density (mostly soft woods) and is/was just wet. In this case, most timbers by the time they are finished being turned, already lost most of the excessive moisture, mainly if in summer time or in a hot day. Does pay to let the piece just turned, if was a little wet, to settle a bit (dry) for a couple of days, before any oils or finishes are added to it.

I hope this helps you a little!

Cheers
RBTCO

Originally Posted by robutacion

In my opinion, ideal moisture content in ready to turn timbers, has lots of possible variations/combinations depending particularly on 2 main factors.

Aw, c'mon! All timber is "ready to turn," regardless of moisture content. All the MC does is determine how long the item will last after turning...

IMHO, moisture meters are more useful for dressed timber to be incorporated in furniture and interior work, less useful for turning except segmented work. Like RBTCO says, they measure the local moisture content, which is usually just at the surface.

For woodturning projects, turning green provides a more immediate result. But expect warping, sometimes overnight. This is fine if you want to make an oval bowl for example, and have folks wonder how you could turn an oval on a lathe. Otherwise, allow enough material to be removed in secondary turning after a day or two or more. Also, different species have some project-specific characteristics to recommend for or against. Ask for help. I don't think anyone has yet exhausted all the possible combinations enough to write a book about it, and if they have it's probably obsolete as soon as the ink dries (including virtual ink).

Joe

Skew ChiDAMN!!, hahahahah, absolutely...!

joe greiner, I agree...!

Now, with all this said, I believe Moisture Content Meters, as any instrument that helps to determine the timber condition(s), are a good thing to have. Unfortunately, lots of the more sophisticated instruments, are excessively expensive for the average bloke but, the common MCM are now very affordable and easy to obtain. I use my MCM all the time (routine checks), and a few times has assist me to make the right decision in regards to, is it ready (dry enough) or not?
A few times, visual inspection of the blank can fail or be difficult, never the best feeling to start turning a special project blank that looked dry, but end-up not so, after you started disturbing (working) it!

This is indeed the very reason why coffenup, raise the question, wasn't it? and if I'm right, no doubt a very good question!

Cheers
RBTCO