Thread: How do you like to mount?

The faceplate or screw chuck is generally "the inside" of the bowl and has to be removed any way.

Yep, thats the way I do it and it works fine. This piece is held on by a screw chuck and from memory never had a problem.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Neil,
by "Galvo hex headed screws work quite well." do you mean the short ones for colorbond fences with the metal cutting point? The roofing ones that go into timber battens are 40-50 mm long, a bit too long IMHO. Or you had something else in mind?

(screwing all those screws in and out seems to me more time consuming than my paring, though... )

It always catches me. Have you noticed that if there is not a space between and ")" the software decides that you meant to put in the icon for ROFL?

has pretty well covered it in his post. I use the Sheet Metal ones on the top right here. They have a short slot cut into the tip (not shown) that helps drill and screw at the same time, but not to be confused with the self drilling style, shown second down on left.

Yeah, that ROFL thing is a bit annoying.

.....

Here's a glue block and the tap involved

Very easy to use, just got to wait for the glue to dry too use it and you lose no blank depth at all.
Good for making strops too

Originally Posted by Harry72

Here's a glue block and the tap involved

Very easy to use, just got to wait for the glue to dry too use it and you lose no blank depth at all.
Good for making strops too

Yes, it is a good solution and I have used it at times. The only way I have found to center it well, though, is to mark on the blank a circle as wide as the sacrificial block/faceplate and position it. I bought a hot glue gun for the purpose but either it was defective (el cheapo, not surprising) or I could not work out how to get it to squeeze out the glue, I just gave up, must try again. Drying time and cutting out PVA does not appeal to me, but I have on the bench a blank started just that way because I could not see a better option. It was meant to be my entry to the box challenge before everything else in my life took priority.

Given the consensus about the screw chuck I really must try harder. I noticed your openness, Neil, although you also prefer that. Thanks for the advice. The blank in the photo is one of 4 cut out of a log of red ironbark, I'll try various methods for comparison.

, thanks for the advice. Two further questions, please:

- to get the screws into hard wood, wouldn't it be necessary to predrill the holes?

- 1.4" is quite deep, are you saying that you start from a 3" blank to get a 3/4" thick plate? I don't think I got it.

Originally Posted by frank&earnest

yes, it is a good solution and i have used it at times. The only way i have found to center it well, though, is to mark on the blank a circle as wide as the sacrificial block/faceplate and position it. I bought a hot glue gun for the purpose but either it was defective (el cheapo, not surprising) or i could not work out how to get it to squeeze out the glue, i just gave up, must try again. Drying time and cutting out pva does not appeal to me, but i have on the bench a blank started just that way because i could not see a better option. It was meant to be my entry to the box challenge before everything else in my life took priority.

Given the consensus about the screw chuck i really must try harder. I noticed your openness, neil, although you also prefer that. thanks for the advice. The blank in the photo is one of 4 cut out of a log of red ironbark, i'll try various methods for comparison.

, thanks for the advice. Two further questions, please:

- to get the screws into hard wood, wouldn't it be necessary to predrill the holes? i generally don't as they are self drilling. Be careful that you use wood, not metal screws. Metal screws don't grip as well. Damhik.
However, sometimes the wood pulled "up" by the screw will not let the faceplate seat flat. In that case i generally remove the plate again and countersink the holes but it still only takes a minute or so.

- 1.4"(oops, should read 1/4".edited my original post) is quite deep, are you saying that you start from a 3" blank to get a 3/4" thick plate? I don't think i got it.

hth.

Originally Posted by

For the last 30 years I have turned plates and bread boards 3/4" or 20 mm thick on a single screw that only goes in 1/4".

Do you walk on water also? Can mere mortals do that?

Or was the diametre of the plate 1" ?

Now I definitely have to try harder with this method. Thanks .

All this now begs the question: what is the maximum size of the blank I could mount on this? https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/min...w-chuck-51113/

BTW, I tried again the glue gun today and it worked. Maybe last time I had left it on too long.

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

Do you walk on water also?

Haven't seen walk on water, well not yet. But have seen him walk on more shavings than most people can produce in a minute....

All this now begs the question: what is the maximum size of the blank I could mount on this? https://www.woodworkforums.com/f8/min...w-chuck-51113/

Keep that dainty little screw chuck for bottle stoppers and use the more substantial screw that will have come with that 100mm chuck for your bowl blanks.

.....

"Keep that dainty little screw chuck for bottle stoppers and use the more substantial screw that will have come with that 100mm chuck for your bowl blanks."

Or the bigger one that came with the SN2 ... my sentiments entirely.

But if can turn a plate on a 1/4" long screw, he could turn a 20" bowl on that 1" screw...

Originally Posted by Frank&Earnest

"Keep that dainty little screw chuck for bottle stoppers and use the more substantial screw that will have come with that 100mm chuck for your bowl blanks."

Or the bigger one that came with the SN2 ... my sentiments entirely.

But if can turn a plate on a 1/4" long screw, he could turn a 20" bowl on that 1" screw...

Have turned 600mm platters on a screw chuck.

The Woodfast one. The Nova and Vicmark leave too big a hole.

Originally Posted by

Have turned 600mm platters on a screw chuck.

The Woodfast one. The Nova and Vicmark leave too big a hole.

OK, OK, I got it. No need to turn the screw any further...

I do use a forstner bit recess in the top of the bowl to turn the outside, and a tooled/dove tailed scraper to form a recess on the bottom of the bowl for coring and finish turning the inside of the bowl. Just the fastest and most simple method for me (efficiency is intelligent laziness). It really doesn't seem to make a whole lot of difference that the sides of the drilled recess are straight (not dove tailed. It holds enough to keep the blank secure for heavy roughing. I do make it 1/4 inch plus deep, deeper than the dove tailed one I tool into the bottom for turning the inside. I don't think you could get an accurate recess with a forstner bit in a hand held drill, especially if the bit is getting dull as they will want do wander off course, and you really want the sides perfectly straight. Any drill big enough to handle the hole saw blades, would probably cost about as much as a good drill press. There are also drill bits with a grub screw in the center to pilot the bit, but again, it takes a big hand drill to run it, and the grub screw can pull the drill bit into the wood too fast.

While I know the screw chuck works, I just never trusted it. A small screw to hold a big blank??? With the depth of the screw, I wouldn't be concerned about removing the hole. The last core is usually shallow enough that it isn't worth the effort to turn, so I just turn it out. I have one that fits into my big chuck, but, just never learned to use it well.

I would guess that a router bit could be used to make the recess. I measured once, and my jaws on my Vicmark are about 7 degrees, which is the common angle used in flat work dove tails.

The stacked hole saw blades are an interesting concept, but looks like too much work for me.

robo hippy

Originally Posted by robo hippy

I do use a forstner bit recess in the top of the bowl to turn the outside, and a tooled/dove tailed scraper to form a recess on the bottom of the bowl for coring and finish turning the inside of the bowl. Just the fastest and most simple method for me (efficiency is intelligent laziness). It really doesn't seem to make a whole lot of difference that the sides of the drilled recess are straight (not dove tailed. It holds enough to keep the blank secure for heavy roughing. I do make it 1/4 inch plus deep, deeper than the dove tailed one I tool into the bottom for turning the inside. I don't think you could get an accurate recess with a forstner bit in a hand held drill, especially if the bit is getting dull as they will want do wander off course, and you really want the sides perfectly straight. Any drill big enough to handle the hole saw blades, would probably cost about as much as a good drill press. There are also drill bits with a grub screw in the center to pilot the bit, but again, it takes a big hand drill to run it, and the grub screw can pull the drill bit into the wood too fast.

While I know the screw chuck works, I just never trusted it. A small screw to hold a big blank??? With the depth of the screw, I wouldn't be concerned about removing the hole. The last core is usually shallow enough that it isn't worth the effort to turn, so I just turn it out. I have one that fits into my big chuck, but, just never learned to use it well.

I would guess that a router bit could be used to make the recess. I measured once, and my jaws on my Vicmark are about 7 degrees, which is the common angle used in flat work dove tails.

The stacked hole saw blades are an interesting concept, but looks like too much work for me.

robo hippy

Oh what a difference does a "b" make! Thank you very much Robo, your confirmation is very uplifting for me. Intelligent laziness rules!

One thing I checked after this discussion is the shape of the jaws I am using. None of them is really "dovetailed" after all, they are all straight with one ridge or two smaller ridges on the outer rim for gripping. The market sorts out these things very quickly, so one would think that if dovetailing was a big advantage the makers would have obliged.

Yea, it is robo hippy, as in robo cop. Came from me twirling my hammer around my finger and trying to get it into my tool belt loop like the old movie Robo Cop. I was wearing a big leg brace at the time, and one guy on the crew shouted "Hey, it's robo hippy!", and I liked it.

I have the Vicmark chucks. Both Nova and Oneway have dove tailed jaws for their chucks now. They do hold better than the straight jaws, with the exception of the ribbed ones. Dove tail joints have been used in flat work since about day one because of their mechanical advantage.

robo hippy