Thread: my first ....

very nice Jenny. I love the mushrooms and the acrylic really highlights the pen.

Grizz

They all look great Jenny.
You have a good eye for style.

Perhaps the pen could have been sanded with a finer grit.

You go girl! Good work. I'm sure you will find as I did that experience will become your best critic.

By the way, those mushrooms are great with a little fresh garlic and sauteed in extra virgin olive oil.

what size drill bit do you use when drilling the pen?
how does the pen ink stay in there, is it glued, if so how do you get new ink?
did u do it using a chuck or just normally between centres?

btw... great work and designs,

Originally Posted by ss_11000

what size drill bit do you use when drilling the pen?
how does the pen ink stay in there, is it glued, if so how do you get new ink?
did u do it using a chuck or just normally between centres?

btw... great work and designs,

The drill bit was a 5/32

If I am real careful when drilling the pen slips in but tight enough to stay in - if I get sloppy - which I did with the second attempt - I needed to use superglue so renewing the ink will be a problem.

I used the jacobs chuck to hold the pen after I had rounded it off, held the drill bit in my hand and gently followed the hole made by the tailstock. Second time I used a pair of pliers to hold the drill bit but it jiggled at the wrong time and enlarged the hole opening

Originally Posted by ss_11000

what size drill bit do you use when drilling the pen?
how does the pen ink stay in there, is it glued, if so how do you get new ink?
did u do it using a chuck or just normally between centres?

btw... great work and designs,

The drill bit was a 5/32

If I am real careful when drilling the pen slips in but tight enough to stay in - if I get sloppy - which I did with the second attempt - I needed to use superglue so renewing the ink will be a problem.

I used the jacobs chuck to hold the pen after I had rounded it off, held the drill bit in my hand and gently followed the hole made by the tailstock. Second time I used a pair of pliers to hold the drill bit but it jiggled at the wrong time and enlarged the hole opening

Nice work, Jenny. Cool 'shrooms, and while I do not know about bobbins, the pen is an interesting design with the wood/acrylic combination. You might consider smoothing out the surface (and finish) with 0000 steel wool for a soft, silky look and feel.

Originally Posted by Gil Jones

You might consider smoothing out the surface (and finish) with 0000 steel wool for a soft, silky look and feel.

Steel wol comes in different grades? How would I use it? Still on the lathe?

Steel wool for finishing (from a woodie store) comes in different grades with 0000 being the finest.

However, some people don't recommend that you use it. I never have, so I can't say either way.

As for use I reckon that Gil will enlighten us! Could well be worth a try at least.

I think they make steel wool in grades even finer than 0000, now, but I can't get it here.
I use 0000 all the time. It's just one of the steps in finishing nearly anything... before I do any wet sanding.
I use it on the lathe, and off sometimes.
Jenny, I think a buffing system like mine would do you good. I made it, so you could too. Let me know if you're curious.

I dislike using steel wool on unfinished timber, as sometimes particles embed in the grain and react with any latent moisture in the wood... making rust marks under the finish.

However, after sanding down with fine grits of paper and applying the first coat of finish, I often use 0000 wool between coats to get rid of those annoying air-borne specks. Occasionally I'll use it after the final coat to create a satin finish. This is both on the lathe and off.

I reckon everyone has their own ways of doing things, and I can understand Skew not wanting rust spots under a finish (especially a water-based finish), or on green wood.
Personally, I like steel wool, and use it often, on bare wood, and to smooth out a finish (I use it by hand, in small amounts, like sand paper). On the lathe (spinning or not), and off give good results for me. I have never had rust spots from it, but when I see tiny pieces caught in the wood grain, I just pull it out with a small piece of tape. I am not fond of gloss finishes, and 0000 steel wool produces a very soft, smooth surface, which can be lightly buffed back to a fair gloss in seconds.
I have heard of 000000 steel wool, but never found it for sale anywhere.
I do not know what 0000 steel wool costs in OZ, but it is reasonably inexpensive over here, and a pack of it lasts me quite a while. Try it, and see if you like the results.

You've either better eyes or a lot more patience than me, then.

Jim Carrol is selling Rustin's 225g packs of 0000 steel wool for $7.95.

I know that I am preaching to the converted BUT be very careful using steel wool on a running lathe.

It can grab quickly and has a habit of getting tangled in fingers.

I didn't do it but one of my students did.