Thread: Offset Bowl

Glad you did venture into the shed. That is one beautiful piece of work.

looks great.
how did you do the fluting?
router?
how did the teak turn?

you can keep you canbera im cold enough here thank you verry mutch.

top of 18 degrees tomorow and i have to work down inthe bottom of the gully. fencing accross a creek would you belive it. had a look today and im gunna have to go for a swim at least onec.

How did you achieve the hollowing with an offset hole?
Does the hollow shape follow the outside or is it thicker on one side?

Good question(s) H, I want to know too.

It is a keeper I reckon.

Spectacular in every way, Fredo. Thanks for braving the cold.

By any chance, did you take some WIP pics? Lotsa questions about your procedure, like "How did you turn the roly-poly bottom?" That's a very nice feature. I suppose we could figure some of them out, and probably guess wrong.

Joe

That is up there in the very good range and is also pleasing to look at.

Really nice piece Fredo. Looking forward to the answer to the questions.

Nice work Fredo, looks like you've hollowed it out the normal way as the hole looks to go over the centre point and then you've mounted it off centre to shape the final hole size, am I close?

Good on yer Fredo, keep em guessing!

Hi everyone,

Canberra yesterday: 7 degrees and snow for a while. Sorry about the delay, but work gets in the way sometimes. The bowl - no real secrets, I (and this is my first attempt) mounted the front of the blank onto a screw chuck, turned and sanded the bottom of the bowl to finished shape and added a dovetail foot to hold in a chuck which I removed later. I then mounted the bowl and chuck on my homebuilt adjustable offset face plate, and hollowed, first with a bowl gouge, then switched to a Sorby hollowing tool. The hollowing is relative to the opening and not the blank (wall thickness of the blank varies from 3mm on one side to about 40mm on the other side). Does this make sense so far? I hope so. Next, I tapered the front face down to accentuate the fluting which I added with a router and a home made jig. After sanding the front is finished. To remove the foot, I reversed the bowl onto a vacuum chuck and supported it with a tail stock to turn off the foot. I finished the small nipple left by hand. I hope this covers it for those interested, if not, fire a question and I'll see if I can answer it.

Disclaimer - Re the offset faceplate I made: I have a heavy duty VL300 lathe with variable speed. I am comfortable using this face plate at low speed on small turnings. I am not recommending anyone else use one of these face plates as it is potentially dangerous.

Fredo

Hi Fredo
That offset face plate system is sheer bloody genius, you wouldn't want to share the bolt hole pattern with us would you

Cheers
GJ

I reckon it's just as well you made the wall thickness variable. It probably could have been turned more uniform through the envelope of the whirling offset rim, but then it wouldn't lie as flat as shown in the first pic 3.

I think I'd be tempted to attach a counterweight to the faceplate to reduce vibration. My lathe's minimum speed is about 600 rpm, so it'd be my only way of attempting something like this; or wait until the new lathe appears (when/if).

Joe

Grumphy John - I will get back to you with the specs, it's not to complicated.

Joe - I do actually use a lead counterweight bolted to the plate. The speed I turn at is up to 500 RPM, depending on the vibration.

Fredo