Thread: oland type tool

Much prettier than mine. It has a rounded end 3/16" tool bit in a slot in 1/2" square steel bar, which in turn (with corners ground off) fits into a length of 1/2" steel pipe, which fits into a wood handle. It's bad ugly/crude (but cheap to make), and has been my best hollowing tool for years.

Hey Hughie...

Next time I see lizzie o she might take interest that your making the great tools that she does! lol...just teasing.

Looks good!

Looks good Hughie.

You got the woodlathe back on the road or just marking time? ;-}

Looks good Hughie

No good makin' lathes and Olands and such like if you're not gettin' amongst some wood some time!!!!! When's that shed gonna happen????
I reckon that Oland would fit in the '' if you want it kept warm 'til ya get a shed Nice job Hughie

I was going to ask the obvious question, but I thought I'd do a search first and got this

I made one of these quite some time ago using 5/8" CRS and the 1/4" HSS bits. It is 18" long and both ends are fitted with cutting bits, each with a different grind. I used two different diameters of fish tank tubing (small one is 5/8" ID and the other fits over it) to make a comfortable handle. The weight is good for me but some might find it heavy. This serves for more than 90% of all work I do.

That's a really nice, high-tech Oland tool, Hughie. You do exceptional work on tools.
Question for you. I think I read on Darrell's website, that if you used a smaller bit that you could reach farther across the toolrest, because there is less pressure on the cutter. What do you think?
((I've used down to 1/8" cutters, and have turned one 12-14 inch vase (I haven't measured it), but it's the first and only one I've tried to reach across the rest that far, and I did it before I knew what chatter was.))

'Chatter' ... there's another one for the Devil's dictionary!

She: it's all he ever talks about, dang turning!
He: she wakes me up from a faceplate with it!

(sorry to sidetrack.)

That's a really nice, high-tech Oland tool, Hughie. You do exceptional work on tools.
Question for you. I think I read on Darrell's website, that if you used a smaller bit that you could reach farther across the toolrest, because there is less pressure on the cutter. What do you think?
((I've used down to 1/8" cutters, and have turned one 12-14 inch vase (I haven't measured it), but it's the first and only one I've tried to reach across the rest that far, and I did it before I knew what chatter was.

Al, It does sound logical, But then if you grind the tip with a blunt angle you can rub the bevel so to speak.

I prefer larger tips around 3/8 more of a cutting face and faster removal of timber and with a 20mm dia shaft plus a long handle It generally works for me.

Originally Posted by hughie

Al, It does sound logical, But then if you grind the tip with a blunt angle you can rub the bevel so to speak. I prefer larger tips around 3/8 more of a cutting face and faster removal of timber and with a 20mm dia shaft plus a long handle It generally works for me.

3/4" shaft... makes sense to me.

How blunt? 70*? 60? (brain pickin' tiime.)

AL,

Your full of good questions

I sorta start with say around 80 and fiddle about until it suits......... not really a finite answer.

One thing I have found is that real hard 'n dense timber you may have to down to 60 or so to get it to bite. Then come back to the more blunt angle for finishing. I like to sharpen both ends to make it easier and quicker.

But I have been toying with the idea of having say 60 or less and then applying a Alivera type second grind of around the cutting edge of 75-80 or so, dunno if it would work.

Just to sidetrack ... one of the effects of bevel angle variation would be variation in the burr, which is sposed to do the cutting. (Leaving aside for the moment the grit of the wheel which will also vary the burr).

Any idea how this variation might play out?

.

.. one of the effects of bevel angle variation would be variation in the burr, which is sposed to do the cutting. (Leaving aside for the moment the grit of the wheel which will also vary the burr). Any idea how this variation might play out?

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Hmm good point but theres usually not allot of burr on HSS. But all the more the merrier as far a I am concerned.

The shame about the burr is we cant get it to last... so then I guess we go to a cup type cutter, that by definition has a huge lip or burr and cuts accordingly