Thread: Opinion on method?

'Spect you know this, but ain't the standard fudge method for this kind of vessel to shape the outside, with a bead at the neck, part off at the bead to give you a wider aperture, complete the hollowing and then glue the neck back on.

Of course, it would be difficult with a wood artist who could only hold tools in their mouth.

Originally Posted by rsser

'Spect you know this, but ain't the standard fudge method for this kind of vessel to shape the outside, with a bead at the neck, part off at the bead to give you a wider aperture, complete the hollowing and then glue the neck back on.

Of course, it would be difficult with a wood artist who could only hold tools in their mouth.

Damn - too slow again! Was going to suggest that after reading an article on a guy turning big egg forms using a similar technique.

Great minds Vern!

Or maybe just retentive ones ...

Aye, I'd thought of that but I'd like the outside form to be an unbroken curve, as it'll have... "those fancy S-shaped handles" ...on each side.

As an aside: what's the proper name for those handles? I know there is one, just never can remember it.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

Aye, I'd thought of that but I'd like the outside form to be an unbroken curve, as it'll have... "those fancy S-shaped handles" ...on each side.

As an aside: what's the proper name for those handles? I know there is one, just never can remember it.

ogee?

Ansa. pl.ansae.

ETA: OK, ogee shaped ansae, then...

[Now I'm fully aware that it'd be more impressive (esp. to the judges ) it 'was turned as a true hollow-form, hollowing solely through neck. However, I don't want to bore the neck any more than 15mm wide... and given my current tooling this'd leave me with rather thick walls.

Skew not as difficult perhaps as it first appears. A simple adjustment to your tooling.

http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...355#post434355

This would come some where near to assisting along with OGYT laser set up you could produce the thickness you require.

just a thought

Sadly, with my metal fabrication skills the date of entry would be well past before I've finished building the tooling... although I've been conscientiously buliding up a collection of saved posts for tools that I do want to build one day.

ie. I'll get there, just not yet.


As for the handle style, I don't think 'tis ogee. That I would've remembered. It may be a 'right' answer but isn't the term I'm looking for. I think I'll stick to those "fancy S-shaped" or "treble clef style" handles for the meantime.

Skew,

have alook at this, some thing along these lines would ,I think come real close to your needs. Its an easy build, bend, weld, glue the handle.

Originally Posted by hughie

Skew,

have alook at this, some thing along these lines would ,I think come real close to your needs. Its an easy build, bend, weld, glue the handle.

Thanks Hughie, that's what I thought you meant but best to be sure than sorry, eh?

FWIW, here's a screenshot of the outside curve of the form I have plotted. The grid is 5cm, for reference. As you can see, the narrowest part of the neck is 21mm which means an extremely constrained internal bore. 13mm maximum if I can get a constant 4mm wall thickness.



The pic doesn't show handles, inside curve, stopper or foot for sake of simplicity. Of course, I could show you what the complete piece is supposed to look like, but then I'd be giving you ammo to use against me when the final product comes out looking completely different...

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

........... The pic doesn't show handles, inside curve, stopper or foot for sake of simplicity. Of course, I could show you what the complete piece is supposed to look like, but then I'd be giving you ammo to use against me when the final product comes out looking completely different...

You haven't mentioned what timber you're using Skew!? Might be able to help out with something special

The pic doesn't show handles, inside curve, stopper or foot for sake of simplicity. Of course, I could show you what the complete piece is supposed to look like, but then I'd be giving you ammo to use against me when the final product comes out looking completely different

no worries, this 'l be enough to plot a basic bar curve. Hmm as Vern says your gonna need some stable dense timber to pull this one off. Wall thickness constant wont be a problem.

Skew,
I did this hollow form a while back. It is 180mm high and 180mm diameter. The opening is 40mm. This one was done with the Sorby Stewart system out of brown pine. The wall thickness is 3/16". The outside was turned first and then the inside. I used a series of wall gauges made from 8# wire bent to a very flat "C" shape to measure the wall thickness. The Stewart system worked very well, but got a bit hairy after four hours concentrating on the job. It was glue chucked to a waste block on a face plate.
Jim

Jim,

Nice one Skew is gonna take his down to 4mm...likes living dangerously... or challenge addicted..