Thread: Outboard Turning Attachments

Steve, it looks like the ways will separate from the head stock. Since you think or are prepared to drill some holes, why not separate the ways,align them to the top of the gap, and then drill out and tap some holes to get the swing the gap allows. Then, your swing will be whatever the distance is between head and tail stock and you'll have ways support the whole length of the ways. Of course, you will need to raise head stock at the feet to make the lathe level. That would be my approach if I had this situation come up for me. Heck, there might already be holes there, and since you aren't thinking along those lines, they might have not been obvious. Just a thought........... Jerry (in Tucson)

Steve, I have the same Outboard table, attached to my Yellow Peril (Woodfast M910). It gives my up to 700mm swing. It works well as an outboard table and tool rest. It does sterling duty as a receptacle for tool rests, rags and EEE during normal use

You're basically just after a toolrest for the outboard side?

How about making a simple stand?

It can be as basic as a 20L (4Gal) drum full of concrete with a pipe the right length (& internal diameter for the rest, of course) embedded in the middle. Awkward to move around, but the weight works in your favour in use. One advantage is it'll give you the maximum throw your lathe can handle - you'd probably need to hand assist the starting spin on large enough pieces if you felt that adventurous.

It may be worth giving a try before you go the length of drilling into a new attachment or <twitch> your lathe.

Originally Posted by pat

Steve, I have the same Outboard table, attached to my Yellow Peril (Woodfast M910). It gives my up to 700mm swing. It works well as an outboard table and tool rest. It does sterling duty as a receptacle for tool rests, rags and EEE during normal use

Hi pat Is that whats it for,,,,,, I will have to get one of those !

Thanks for your suggestions. I will have a look at the feasibility of reattaching the bed to the headstock a bit lower to give greater swing.

I have heard of using a drum of concrete as a free standing tool post support but not sure how steady this will be?

Given that the Woodfast unit works well and has pretty much the same capacity as the optional Durden unit at least I know that I can fall back to that if I decide not to proceed with one of the other options and it will be within the capacity of the original design of the lathe.

Thanks for your help, I will let you know how things progress.

Cheers,

Steve

I like this type as it transmits force to the floor and holds the tool rest from pulling toward the work better than the bucket of concrete or smaller free standing ones:

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/i...ic_out_bra.jpg

Wadkin made a good heavy free standing one:

http://www.lathes.co.uk/wadkin/img4.jpg

If you have more time than money, one could be made up using black iron pipe and fittings.

Paul, I know the Wadkin one personally, heavy piece of cast steel!

I had the rear outboard table on a Woodfast. Good quality kit, but there is one thing to consider.

Check out the availability of lefthanded inserts for your chucks. I found them very hard to come by in 30x3.5mm internal thread size at the time (had to get them machined up) and is one of the reasons I let that otherwise very good lathe go. Vermec is now making them, here, but I would check out that they can do it in your spindle thread size for your chucks before investing in the outboard attachment.

I have used both the outboard attachment and a free standing tool rest. The table attachment is much easier to use if you are going to do a lot of outboard turning (most of my turning is outboard, not for size but for comfort), but a good freestanding unit will get the job done if you are only going to use it occasionally on larger pieces.

If you search for them, there are a few threads on the forum with different freestanding rest designs.

Here is mine...

freestanding tool rest.jpg freestanding tool rest detail - tripod.jpg

IMG_0450.JPG IMG_0453.JPG

Ignore the extra attachment to the securing plate at the top of the centre post (another experiment).

Originally Posted by Nubsnstubs

Steve, it looks like the ways will separate from the head stock. Since you think or are prepared to drill some holes, why not separate the ways,align them to the top of the gap, and then drill out and tap some holes to get the swing the gap allows. Then, your swing will be whatever the distance is between head and tail stock and you'll have ways support the whole length of the ways. Of course, you will need to raise head stock at the feet to make the lathe level. That would be my approach if I had this situation come up for me. Heck, there might already be holes there, and since you aren't thinking along those lines, they might have not been obvious. Just a thought........... Jerry (in Tucson)

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for that suggestion, I had not even thought of that approach. When I checked it out though there is not a lot of room to drill an additional set of holes for the ways and also the casting has a boss about 1" or more to accommodate the bolts to attach the ways. Naturally if they were moved down there is no similar boss lower on the casting and consequently not much meat to hold the ways.

Also the motor is on the frame so that would have to be adjusted or a new longer belt would be required as well.

I think I will look at one of the other solutions.

Thanks,

Steve

Originally Posted by NeilS

I had the rear outboard table on a Woodfast. Good quality kit, but there is one thing to consider.

Check out the availability of lefthanded inserts for your chucks. I found them very hard to come by in 30x3.5mm internal thread size at the time (had to get them machined up) and is one of the reasons I let that otherwise very good lathe go. Vermec is now making them, here, but I would check out that they can do it in your spindle thread size for your chucks before investing in the outboard attachment.

I have used both the outboard attachment and a free standing tool rest. The table attachment is much easier to use if you are going to do a lot of outboard turning (most of my turning is outboard, not for size but for comfort), but a good freestanding unit will get the job done if you are only going to use it occasionally on larger pieces.

If you search for them, there are a few threads on the forum with different freestanding rest designs.

Hi Neil,

Good tip on the chuck inserts. The Durden is 30x3.5 and I do have Vicmarc chucks although one is direct threaded and I have Locktighted the other insert in as it was coming undone rather than the spindle thread. I might have to buy another one just for outboard turning ;-)

I am going to the wood show this weekend so will check if there are any options while I am there otherwise I will probably go with your Vermec recommendation. I do have access to a big lathe at my woodturning club (Woodturners of the Hunter) but I would like to at least finish the bowls at home even if I rough turn them at the club as their lathe has EVS whereas mine is belt drive only at present. That upgrade is in the wish list for a later time.

Thanks,

Steve

Steve
I used a Vermec LH adaptor on my old lathe when turning outboard , but sold it with the lathe . One thing you need to consider ,if you are running the lathe either backwards or forwards, there is always a risk of either the chuck or the insert unscrewing unless you have a locking ring . I didn't have one and I had a few exciting moments .
Ted

Hello Steve,
I have the Durden as well. I bought the outboard for the Durden through Hare & Forbes some years ago.
They were the Agents. However, they were made by a firm in S.A and although they have ceased to make the lathes
they may have the outboard pieces available, if H&F can't source for you? You will however need a left hand thread insert for your chuck. You can turn
up to about 900mm on the outboard. Hope that helps. Drillit.

Originally Posted by Drillit

Hello Steve,
I have the Durden as well. I bought the outboard for the Durden through Hare & Forbes some years ago.
They were the Agents. However, they were made by a firm in S.A and although they have ceased to make the lathes
they may have the outboard pieces available, if H&F can't source for you? You will however need a left hand thread insert for your chuck. You can turn
up to about 900mm on the outboard. Hope that helps. Drillit.

High Drillit,

I will check with Hare and Forbes but I expect that they are well out of the Durden equipment. I did find a Steve Durden selling old Durden parts, amongst other things, on eBay and I bought a new original hand wheel for my lathe.

jr444400 | eBay

I did ask him if there was any other parts for the Durden TT400 and he said he would list them if they had any but so far none have appeared so I suspect no big bits left.

If I do proceed I think it might be wise to buy a dedicated chuck and Locktight the insert in so I do not have the "exciting moments" that Turnerted mentioned in his post. I don't expect I will need much more than 600mm capacity as that is as much as I can cut and carry. I cored a 520mm dia x 140mm thick black butt at my club on Mon night and that left me tired out, must be getting old!

Thanks,

Steve

[QUOTE=StevoWoodi;1959028]Hi Jerry,

Thanks for that suggestion, I had not even thought of that approach. When I checked it out though there is not a lot of room to drill an additional set of holes for the ways and also the casting has a boss about 1" or more to accommodate the bolts to attach the ways. Naturally if they were moved down there is no similar boss lower on the casting and consequently not much meat to hold the ways.

Also the motor is on the frame so that would have to be adjusted or a new longer belt would be required as well.

I think I will look at one of the other solutions.

Thanks,

Steve[/QUOTE




Steve, these pictures are better than the first few at showing what you have to work with. Another thing I forgot to mention in my first reply was that you would also have to build up your tailstock. Since I have access to a machine/welding shop, so those kinds of issues are not that far out of line for me. It's just whether I want to do something like that or not. I am pleased you at least considered my suggestion.. Thanks............. Jerry (in Tucson)