Thread: Turning Pine - any tips?

Ok a couple of questions, first of all, spindle or faceplate?

Tools must be sharp and resharpened every couple cuts.

Spindle, I'd use the long point of the skew to slice the end grain. You will find that skew cuts cleaner than a parting tool. If you are not comfortable with a skew, then a spindle gouge or detail gouge to slice the end grain,

Faceplate, internal: Bowl gouge, Start with the flute 90°, pointing in the direction of travel. Handle down at 45°, cutting on centre. Start the cut and rotate the flute to 45°.

These methods I use for all timber types.

If you can get a good finish in pine (#$%# stuff), you can get a good finish in anything.

Originally Posted by Pat

Ok a couple of questions, first of all, spindle or faceplate?

Tools must be sharp and resharpened every couple cuts.

Spindle, I'd use the long point of the skew to slice the end grain. You will find that skew cuts cleaner than a parting tool. If you are not comfortable with a skew, then a spindle gouge or detail gouge to slice the end grain,

Faceplate, internal: Bowl gouge, Start with the flute 90°, pointing in the direction of travel. Handle down at 45°, cutting on centre. Start the cut and rotate the flute to 45°.

These methods I use for all timber types.

If you can get a good finish in pine (#$%# stuff), you can get a good finish in anything.

Cheers Pat. Will be faceplate due to the size of the pieces.

Will be an interesting and educational experience!

Pat has covered this pretty well. It sounds like you have some specific pieces you want to turn but if you just want to practice, green, straight grained (no knots) pine is where to start.

Originally Posted by BobL

Pat has covered this pretty well. It sounds like you have some specific pieces you want to turn but if you just want to practice, green, straight grained (no knots) pine is where to start.

Have about 25 linear metres of pine tree laying in the front yard to play with

I like turning Cypress Pine, I find that pretty easy to manage

When I'm having trouble with a furry finish once I'm down to size, it can help to give it a good coat of shellac and then try again with very light cuts.

It seems to work for me, but then again that could also be 'cos I take advantage of the drying time to sharpen my tools yet again.

Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!

When I'm having trouble with a furry finish once I'm down to size, it can help to give it a good coat of shellac and then try again with very light cuts.

It seems to work for me, but then again that could also be 'cos I take advantage of the drying time to sharpen my tools yet again.

Having a cuppa and a walk around to compose your self, as well!

This is just about the same a wood carving with western red cedar, pine and other conifers.
Extremely carefully sharpened tools.
Density: Do a ring count. Anything less than 15 rings per inch is too soft, like an over-ripe tomato.
Anything over 50 is boney but workable.
Woods in the 20 - 40 rings per inch are really smooth to carve.