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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Hobart, Tas
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    Default The Pinocchio of drive centres?

    The drive centre that came with my lathe (used) has a very long nose. So long that it takes quite the effort to drive it in far enough for the spurs to engage the wood. Looking at pictures of others online, most appear to wear a nose suggestive of a drive centre far more inclined to tell the truth than mine.

    Is this just different, or is mine defective? The nose is a separate piece which seats into the drive centre with a taper, though it is fully seated so the issue doesn't lie there. Perhaps the spurs have been subjected to multiple sharpening operations over the years causing the protruding proboscis.

    20200805_093420.jpg

    If the suggested remedy is to purchase a replacement, I would welcome thoughts on which type to get. An added bonus would be if I could insert it through/in a VM100 chuck without having to remove it first.

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    There's nothing wrong with that spur. I have a couple similar, which I use for softer or punky blanks.

    But I understand your concern with using it with harder timbers. Which is why I have different ones for them.

    As for drive dog plates to fit in your VM100... Vicmarc sells 'em!

    Bottom of the first table

    You'd need both the adapter plate and one or two of the spurs to suit.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Emerald, QLD
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    4,489

    Default

    I had similar issues with my standard drive centre so I spring-loaded the point - doesn't matter if it's soft or hard timber now - problem solved!
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  5. #4
    Mobyturns's Avatar
    Mobyturns is offline In An Instant Your Life Can Change Forever
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
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    "Brownsville" Nth QLD
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    Default

    Looks like a pretty standard Woodfast drive center to me, & in good original condition. If you are using very hard timbers do as Vern has done or if unable to do that then purchase the original or knockoff Steb centers.
    Mobyturns

    In An Instant Your Life CanChange Forever

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    2,209

    Default

    I’ve a few like that.
    I use a metalworking centre drill in both ends when the wood is a harder species.
    Been known to Saw across for the spurs also.
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia.
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    1,271

    Default

    Lance, this is pretty much how I do most hardwood preparation and often with softwoods as well for spindle turning. If you don't have a bandsaw, then almost any handsaw will work. Prior to having my own bandsaw, I used handsaws and even today for brevity I often use a handsaw.

    Spindle Turning Techniques

    Mick.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
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    Default

    Thank-you all for your responses. It is good to know that not only is my centre normal, but that I can make it work with the techniques shared. Phew, it's always nice when the solution isn't to spend more money.

    Mick, I will have a crack at cutting the slots. Thanks for the link, it is a good read for a novice like me.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    27,790

    Default

    I used use a spring loaded centre punch to mark the centres and then drill a shallow 2mm hole in each end on most of my hardwood spur driven pieces.

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