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Thread: face plate work

  1. #16
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    I have done quite a bit of work with Jarrah before I started turning, so when I screw on a face plate to hard timber, I do what I have been doing for years.

    I drill the correct size hole for the screw, & I lubricate the screw with a bit of spray oil.

    All I use is Pozidriv screws.

    Steve
    The fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.

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  3. #17
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    Some quite good responses so far and practical examples of the hazards associated with using screws on face plates and "woodworm screws" in scroll chucks or screw point chucks. Like all mechanical fastening systems each has limits and in repeated use some will eventually fail from metal fatigue. As users it is our responsibility to learn about recommended size & weight limits for each system. We should also discard screws etc "before they fail" which sounds easy enough in theory but in reality most will discard them after they fail. Screws are cheap, doctors bills aren't.

    One hazard that turners fail to realize is that many of the hardened screws available on the market are not suitable for use in wood turning as they are too brittle; and that large bowl/platter blanks on woodworm screws used in scroll chucks especially with standard 50mm jaws can cause lots of problems from compression of the timber leading to wobbles/vibration which also fatigues the woodworm screw.

    This is a link to some very good tips on bowl turning
    http://www.nickcookwoodturner.com/ar...-turn-bowl.pdf

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post

    We should also discard screws etc "before they fail" which sounds easy enough in theory but in reality most will discard them after they fail. Screws are cheap, doctors bills aren't.


    http://www.nickcookwoodturner.com/ar...-turn-bowl.pdf
    Screw Prices, like a lot of things, vary quite a lot.

    Like most people, I started buying screws from a hardware store like Bunnies or Mitre 10.

    Then one day, I was having trouble getting a particular hinge I was after & was told to try a Kitchen Hardware Wholesaler. So I went along & bought a pair of hinges & I wanted a few screws to fit them. Was told they only sell screws by the box, in this case, 1000. So I said ok wondering what I was going to do with the other 992 screws as I reached for my Plastic. The guy apologised & said we have a $20 min on plastic, so I ended up with 10 hinges & 1000 screws for about $22

    Since that day, I only by screws by the box. I am down to about 300 of that original box & I have a huge selection of Screws now.
    I often find that a box of 1000 is only a couple dollars more than a pack of 50 at the hardware store.

    ALSO, My brother & I buy in bulk & share. If one of us needs a size we dont have, we buy a box & give 1/2 to the other.

    So from my perspective, Screws are cheap, Use them once & throw them away.

    Steve
    The fact remains, that 97% of all statistics are made up, yet 87% of the population think they are real.

  5. #19
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    I paid $9 for a packet of 50 x 40mm hex head timber screws form a specialised fastener (nut & bolt) supplier.

    Much cheaper than your local hardware shop.

    Cheers
    Tim
    Some days I turns thisaway, somedays I turns thataway and other days I don't give a stuff so I don't turn at all.

  6. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner View Post
    I prefer a faceplate, 4 (or more) timber roofing screws and a hex driver in a small rattle gun, pre drilling if required.

    This method enables the centre to be moved (should it be required) while rouging down to round.

    The blank can also be kicked over a small amount by inserting a small wedge between the faceplate and the blank. This will change the location of the foot a small amount and can be useful when roughing out burls.

    I have found that, when mounting burls, the ability to relocate the mounting point and angle to be paramount in getting the best form and sapwood colour in the finished piece.

    The initial mounting of the burl is probably the most important variable that has an effect on the finished piece.

    A faceplate and screws give me this flexibility.

    My 2 cents worth.

    Cheers
    Tim
    Agree 100% with this approach. Depending on the wood/ blank, I use #8 or #10 round head Robertson screws 1" to 1 3/4" long & pre-drill harder wood. Nice to be able to adjust the orientation. I always bring up the tail stock as well. Ron.

  7. #21
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    One point that I don't think has been mentioned is the number of pre-drilled holes in faceplates.

    Most of the 75mm-150mm faceplates (including some expensive ones) only come with 4. More screws means more security, particularly on burls. So get the drill press out and add some more screw holes. Better still, face the large bowl or platter blank off the lathe (I use my woodwizz) and glue a large stable chunk of say 19mm ply on it and away you go.

  8. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
    One point that I don't think has been mentioned is the number of pre-drilled holes in faceplates.
    Have re-drilled holes to accommodate slightly heavier gauge roofing screws.

    Also countersank the holes on the face side to allow the wood fibre that pulls up around the screws somewhere to go so the faceplate can pull up flush against the blank; more of an issue with green wood.
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  9. #23
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    While answering another post I was reminded about some issues associated with not pre-drilling holes for face plate screws.

    "Lack of Chamfered Holes - After more than thirteen years of turning professionally, I still see lots of faceplates manufactured without chamfers around the screw holes on the bottom side (blank mounting side). Why is this important? When you install your mounting screws into a wood blank, the fibers around the hole tend to lift up slightly as the screw is inserted.
    Without a tiny chamfer around the hole on the fp, there is no space for these wood fibers to lift up. The raised fibers around each screw can actually prevent the fp from sitting flush with the surface of the blank in some cases, compromising your mounting." http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/faceplates.html

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobyturns View Post

    "Lack of Chamfered Holes - After more than thirteen years of turning professionally, I still see lots of faceplates manufactured without chamfers around the screw holes on the bottom side (blank mounting side). Why is this important? When you install your mounting screws into a wood blank, the fibers around the hole tend to lift up slightly as the screw is inserted.
    Without a tiny chamfer around the hole on the fp, there is no space for these wood fibers to lift up. The raised fibers around each screw can actually prevent the fp from sitting flush with the surface of the blank in some cases, compromising your mounting." http://www.woodturningvideosplus.com/faceplates.html
    What can I say.... great minds think alike...
    Stay sharp and stay safe!

    Neil



  11. #25
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    Just thought I would show how my faceplates are set up, using a faceplate over a chuck with screw Centre is far safer as the blank has more surface support than the chuck jaws .
    there is still the option of friction chucking to turn the inside of the bowl as well doing away with the need of a chuck, but the chuck does make life easier!
    Attached Images Attached Images

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