face plate work

**mat_au** · 11th August 2014, 06:42 PM

i Use a face plate to get my bowls and platters started as like normal people do. so just wondering what kinda screws people use to screw to the face plate?

Im using 50mm screws atm and some of the harder wood i have atm the just break off when i got to unscrew them, so i was thinking something like a hex head screw or something like that.

would love to know what other people use

**Skew ChiDAMN!!** · 11th August 2014, 07:01 PM

Sachys robertson screws. Brilliant stuff.

(They're similar to a hex drive, but with a square mortice.)

**dai sensei** · 11th August 2014, 07:14 PM

Multiple Woodturners Pack

**mat_au** · 11th August 2014, 07:18 PM

was just looking at that, will buy them and give them ago

thanks

**Pat** · 11th August 2014, 09:59 PM

Matt, I third the Sachy's, but I use my Woodfast Screw Chuck for most bowls and platters up to 500mm. I have a 10mm spacer for thinner platters.

It is only the really rough blanks that I now go to a faceplate, as most are cut round at the bandsaw.

**dennisk** · 11th August 2014, 11:51 PM

A Canadian invention by the way, amazing to see some guys still using slotted screws and the amount of crappy screws you get with most hardware these days. I grew up with this type of screw and they generally work well. True Robertson screws have a bit of a taper to them, and most of the junk driver bits made these days are square all the way through, so they dont work as they should with impact drivers etc.My 2 sense.

**mat_au** · 12th August 2014, 08:28 AM

Originally Posted by Pat

Matt, I third the Sachy's, but I use my Woodfast Screw Chuck for most bowls and platters up to 500mm. I have a 10mm spacer for thinner platters.

It is only the really rough blanks that I now go to a faceplate, as most are cut round at the bandsaw.

ive never really tried a screw chuck always used a face plate. might have to give that a go too

**bowl-basher** · 12th August 2014, 08:45 AM

I find that a 60mm Forstner bit the the chuck in expansion mode and a bit of support from the tail stock is the quickest way for the guys that I am working with at Mens shed

**pommyphil** · 12th August 2014, 08:54 AM

Yes, great screws. The other woodturners pack they sell is cheaper and I think more useful.

Multiple Woodturners Pack Small Face Plate

I don't know how to shrink the link

Gosh it's automatic !

**tea lady** · 12th August 2014, 10:28 AM

Originally Posted by Pat

Matt, I third the Sachy's, but I use my Woodfast Screw Chuck for most bowls and platters up to 500mm. I have a 10mm spacer for thinner platters.

It is only the really rough blanks that I now go to a faceplate, as most are cut round at the bandsaw.

I've broken off the screw on screw chucks as well. In harder woods you might need to pre drill a little bigger so that not so much of the thread needs to bite. And in really soft woods the screw might strip so you need the back up of screws as well.

I'll put in another thumbs up fort those square drive screws.

On really big gnarly barstewards I've used those roofing hex drive wood screws.

Small green stuff I've just done between centers.

**Pat** · 12th August 2014, 06:22 PM

Originally Posted by tea lady

I've broken off the screw on screw chucks as well. In harder woods you might need to pre drill a little bigger so that not so much of the thread needs to bite. And in really soft woods the screw might strip so you need the back up of screws as well.

I've bent the screw, after a catch, now have a spare in the jaw box.

**chuck1** · 12th August 2014, 06:50 PM

I attached quality ply wood and fix a coachbolt dead Centre and if needs be I can put extra screws through the ply as the ply is a bigger diameter than faceplate.
With the coachbolt I grind two dints to place extra screws to stop it turning. If it's to long I have ply and craftwood to vary the depth of thread.
Also I replace the coachbolt every 12 month's or so

**mick59wests** · 12th August 2014, 06:54 PM

Originally Posted by bowl-basher

I find that a 60mm Forstner bit the the chuck in expansion mode and a bit of support from the tail stock is the quickest way for the guys that I am working with at Mens shed

Just shows there are still more ways to skin a cat! I'd be wary (as is my case) if the chuck is dovetailed for expansion mode.

cheers

Mick

**Tim the Timber Turner** · 12th August 2014, 10:30 PM

I prefer a faceplate, 4 (or more) timber roofing screws and a hex driver in a small rattle gun, pre drilling if required.

This method enables the centre to be moved (should it be required) while rouging down to round.

The blank can also be kicked over a small amount by inserting a small wedge between the faceplate and the blank. This will change the location of the foot a small amount and can be useful when roughing out burls.

I have found that, when mounting burls, the ability to relocate the mounting point and angle to be paramount in getting the best form and sapwood colour in the finished piece.

The initial mounting of the burl is probably the most important variable that has an effect on the finished piece.

A faceplate and screws give me this flexibility.

My 2 cents worth.

Cheers
Tim

**NeilS** · 1st September 2014, 12:28 AM

Originally Posted by Tim the Timber Turner

I prefer a faceplate, 4 (or more) timber roofing screws and a hex driver in a small rattle gun, pre drilling if required.

+1

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