Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
Thread: face plate problems
-
22nd October 2007, 09:34 PM #1
face plate problems
gday all
i have an alloy faceplate for my nova1500 that has got a small whip in it (it is worped)
i there any way of getting it back straight?
how could this of happend?
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
-
22nd October 2007 09:34 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Posts
- Many
-
22nd October 2007, 09:56 PM #2
I would say you've got 2 options.
1- Get the face re-machined or
2- Bin it
Reasons why it may have happened.
1- going to fast with an out of balanced piece hanging of it
2- doing the screw or bolts that held it onto the work too tight on an uneven surface
3- may have been dropped.
Do yourself a favour and get rid of it and get a steel one.Cheers
DJ
ADMIN
-
22nd October 2007, 10:47 PM #3
Er, I've got a steel one that's warped... It is a homemade one, though, and per our illustrious axe wielder, they need to be mounted on a mandrel when being faced off in the metal lathe, I reckon mine was done by just being gripped on the flats on the nut, which has resulted in it being out of whack.
Can get by, just attach a piece of ply to the faceplate, face it true, then take it off, screw it with the true face to your blank and screw the faceplate back where it was (mark the edge or something first so it goes back on the same spot).
Works for me when needed. Bit fiddlier than using a true one but workable.
Cheers................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
-
22nd October 2007, 11:04 PM #4Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Covington, Virginia USA
- Posts
- 76
You have a lathe, right?? if you have a carbide tipped tool....mount the faceplate, slow your spindle speed, put your tool rest as close to the faceplate as you can get it (faceplate needs to turn!!) Cut slow, cut steady, cut it true!!!
Even if you don't have a carbide tool, regular HSS tools will cut the alloy, just need to sharpen more often.... You are still going to be dealing with an "out of balance" problem...may or may not be a problem, but the faceplate will be running "true" to the perpendicular line of the spindle/bed...."Too old to be this useful, Way too useful to be this old"
-
23rd October 2007, 12:06 AM #5
If you're turning large pieces regularly, DJ's given damned good advice. It just ain't safe.
But if 'tis only a "minor" warp in the faceplate, Scooter's method will work fine for turning smaller pieces. I've done it myself.
- Andy Mc
-
23rd October 2007, 07:03 AM #6Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
Garry Pye has heavy Jet faceplates which are good value IMO.
Cheers, Ern
-
23rd October 2007, 02:25 PM #7
While we are on face plates, Is there a rule for plate diameter in relation to blank diameter. So far I have turned a 350mm blank on a 90mm plate. I use longer screws on the big ones and so far so good. However something in the back of my mind is saying get a bigger face plate.
Regards
John
-
23rd October 2007, 02:57 PM #8Hewer of wood
- Join Date
- Jan 2002
- Location
- Melbourne, Aus.
- Age
- 71
- Posts
- 12,746
No specific rule that I've heard.
Obviously the greater the overhang the more the fastening is stressed and the better it has to be. That may be critical in the case of irregular blanks, deep blanks and dig-ins
The back of the mind's an important place and I'd go with what it's saying. A 90 to 350 ratio would have me reaching for something bigger.Cheers, Ern
-
23rd October 2007, 03:28 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Adelaide
- Posts
- 2,794
This was my immediate reaction also. But how are you going to "cut it true" by hand? If the warp is deep you could weaken the plate too much and still have a big out of balance problem, if it is minor, would you be able to improve accuracy by much?
I would take dj's advice and try to reverse the warp by using screws on a flat surface (with some help by a hammer) to straighten it up as much as possible, then do the final machining with a sanding disk mounted on the tailstock. It might be slower and consume a few disks, but then you are sure that it is true.
-
23rd October 2007, 06:03 PM #10
One "rule" (of sorts) I use is: the less grain strength, the larger the face plate.
Purely to ensure greater separation of the screws, so if I accidentally align two screws in the "same line of grain" there's less risk of it splitting the blank. So, the minimum safe dia for mounting an Oregon blank is larger than for a piece of Redgum of the same size, even though the Redgum is heavier!
- Andy Mc
-
23rd October 2007, 09:00 PM #11
-
23rd October 2007, 09:26 PM #12
thanks guys
will put up with the small variation for now and invest in a new one latter.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
Similar Threads
-
Creating Router table mounting plate opening
By MrFixIt in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 6Last Post: 25th October 2007, 02:19 PM -
Review: Veritas Router Base Plate from Lee Valley
By silentC in forum ROUTING FORUMReplies: 15Last Post: 20th August 2004, 09:17 AM -
Face plate stuck fast
By Sir Stinkalot in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 19Last Post: 22nd May 2002, 05:31 PM