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Thread: Plate Profile?

  1. #1
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    Default Plate Profile?

    I am trying to perfect my plate turning and would appreciate constructive comments.

    Here are two plates, both 200 mm diameter.

    The walnut one has a curved profile, while the lighter one (dumpster diving wood) has a more angular profile.

    Which is the best way? Curved or angular?

    What about the width of the rim? (wider or narrower)

    Should the rim be more horizontal or sloping?

    I appreciate the advice I get here and it is certainly helping me to improve but it can always be better.

    Another reason I am doing this is that I want to turn a plate with inlaid carving and I need to make sure I have the basics right before I invest a whole lot of hours/days.

    Cheers,
    Chipman

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  3. #2
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    Hey! Both profiles have something going for them. I'd maybe try and have the rims of both a little sharper. (More defined or something. ) And maybe the form a little more taught. I don't know how to quite explain it. Its just a feeling I like to try for. Like the rim is reaching a bit. If you are thinking of incorporating carving in the rim a wider space to work with might be good. And a sharper transition between the rim and the bowl. They just look a little unfocused. IMHO. You prolly just need to do more of them so that your personal style can come out, and they have a more definite feeling.

    Getting the right feel to the form is different in pottery to wood turning. If I feel a bowl needs a bit of tweaking when I'm throwing it I can just push the wet clay out a bit more. (Within reason anyway. To far and it falls over.) With wood you have to know what you want, and go directly to it.
    anne-maria.
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  4. #3
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    Thanks TL,

    I am having trouble putting my finger on exactly what it needs too (that is why I am asking the question) and yes, I am doing quite a bit of practice.

    With the lighter coloured one, I tried to make the rim and base more defined (I thought I had) as you can see a distinct line at the transitions. The only other thing is to actually put a more distinct groove in it.

    Perhaps, a groove just inside the perimeter might help to form a bead on the edge. Some pottery plates have that but not always.

    Oh well more practice and experimenting!


    Thanks TL,
    Chipman

  5. #4
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    I like the one on the right pic the most. I've only turned three or four platters, but mine were sort of like the one on the right, except the rim wasn't so wide, proportionately, sloped a little, and the transition from rim to slope was a little more defined. Mine are thinner, because I didn't plan for carving, so I think you've made some really good first efforts. Just make a couple more, with a some different changes, and you'll find one that you really like better. When you get that one made, you'll know it.
    Keep at it, you're doing fine.
    Al
    Some minds are like concrete thoroughly mixed up and permanently set.

  6. #5
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    Have a look at dinner plates. When you find one you like, copy that.

    The second one looks like a plate. The first looks like a shallow bowl.

  7. #6
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    Thanks Ogyt and ,

    I agree, the walnut one is much more like a shallow bowl. The second one is more like a dinner plate we have. Maybe the rim could have been a little narrower and a bit more sloped. Ogyt, these are not going to be carved...just practice pieces and are only 3-4 mm thick...had to support the back of the rim while doing the final scraping)

    , problem is there are so many different dinner plates!!! but as you said, chose one I like. Still wondering if I should cut a small groove at the critical point(s) or on the rims to make them more obvious?

    Thanks,
    Chipman

  8. #7
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    I think I agree with everyone above, and the actual timber being used sometimes determines how thin you can make the rim etc. They both look pretty good and I'm sure would be eagerly accepted by any recipient. It will probably not matter too much unless you're intending to make a few as a set, in which case you will probably have to achieve some regularity.

    Wayne
    Don't Just Do It.... Do It HardenFast!!

    Regards - Wayne

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    Hi Chipman
    I have never made a plate before but in my opinion sums it up pretty good. The second plate looks like a plate or could I say a formal plate that would look good in a set. The first as said looks like a shallow bowl or you could say an informal plate that you could give/sell by itself because it would look good in many function I don't know if that made sense but what I mean is you could display it with fruit in or serve chips in it etc.
    You can still make adjustments to them by reducing the rim etc. but I think you also need to think what it is to be used for that may help (I find it helps me) you decide in witch direction you need to go.

    Good luck and post pics when you have made (turned) your choice.
    Cheers Rum Pig

    It is easier to ask for forgiveness than permission.

  10. #9
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    Thanks RP,

    I think I would find it quite a challenge to make a matching set.

    I understand what you mean... most of my turnings end up as gifts.... load them up with choclates, or other goodies and wrap them in cellophane. Most people I know really appreciate that something was made for them (as well as the chocies!)

    cheers,

    Chipman

  11. #10
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    Rather than a line where the rim changes/slopes down make it more defined by an actual corner in the timber, Be careful when sanding to sand towards the "corner" - from both sides - not away from it, dont sand over it and round it off. That is the thing that needs to be defined. IMO

    Looks good. I agree with the curved one gives it a "bowl" look.

    Added - after another look at the second one, the rim looks overpowering (too large - out of proportion) but if you intended to do "more work" on it that would then make it a focus point. The other point is the angle of the slope to the bottom - is it too sharp an incline? (too sudden) What % should the rim/slope be to the whole width of platter?

    Keep up the good work

    Cheers
    Last edited by Calm; 8th January 2009 at 09:33 AM. Reason: after second look
    regards

    David


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    "How's the serenity" (from "The Castle")

  12. #11
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    Default Plate

    Hi Chipman

    I like the shape of the walnut one better I prefer to lessen both curves or go for a single curve from rim to rim ,can sharpen or flatten a bit closer the edge depends what you see the end use as .

    Cheers Tony
    Tony

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chipman View Post
    Still wondering if I should cut a small groove at the critical point(s) or on the rims to make them more obvious?
    I think that depends on just what sort of carving you want to do, along with the natural figure of the piece. As you're obviously aware, a groove or bead is a finishing highlight.

    Where they're put makes all the difference in the world... a bead to highlight the transition & lip of the angular plate's rim may look fantastic if done sympathetically, but can be too much if the grain is already busy. If it had been carved as well...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  14. #13
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    Calm,
    appreciate the advice... sanding is one of those things that can quickly spoil the lines and "crispness" of the piece. Perhaps a single curve would make it more defined without adding beads or grooves (been thinking about that too Tony). The rim comment is what my wife says too. a bit too dominant.

    Skew, I agree, I would think it would be wrong to go cutting grooves on the walnut plate as the grain does the talking. Could work on the other one.

    In the piece I am wanting to do, it will have carving in the rim so I guess it will have to be wide. But I am thinking that a single curve with a crisp drop down will be the best (will be turned out of rimu) I have posted a drawing of what I would "like" to do. A bit of a challenge and will keep me busy for some time.

    Cheers,
    Chipman

  15. #14
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    That design frames the rim nicely, so probably wouldn't need a bead or groove. You could lightly groove the inside & outside edges on the lathe while still on the lathe to deine the area you'll be carving, but a pencil would do the same job.

    If you leave the plate mountable (ie. don't turn away the tenon or whatever method you use to hold it on the lathe) until after you do the carving, then if you later decide it needs a bead or groove or whatever...

    (Assuming that you're fairly quick at carving and the wood is stable enough to not move significantly in the meantime, of course!)
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

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    Thumbs up

    Both are good.

    I agree with .

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